Sandra‘s Closet

Meet Serge Lutens, the genius behind the eponymous fragrance and cosmetic label, launched in 2000. Mysterious, captivating, charming, Serge Lutens talks freely and poetically.

His appearance is sylphlike as a dancer, there is something magical about him. He has cast a spell over me after a few seconds.

Serge Lutens with me

Born 1942 in Lille, France, he started his career as a makeup artist and worked for Vogue along with famous photographers such as Richard Avedon and Irving Penn. Monsieur Lutens, as his assistant addressed him constantly during our interview, established the first cosmetics line for Christian Dior in 1967.

Photo: Serge Lutens for Vogue Italia, 1976

His series of photographs that he took in the ’70s were even shown in the Guggenheim Museum. In the ’80s, Shiseido hired him as Creative Director. The famous Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido, conceived and designed by the perfume genius in 1992, are described by him as “more of a refined salon for perfumes than a boutique”.
There you can shop his exclusive line of fragrances.

I am a huge fan of his perfumes. Here you see my very own Serge Lutens collection.
Un Bois Vanille is one of my favourites.

We spoke French during the interview and I have to admit that there is something so magical about his French language that any attempt to translate his answers into English almost fails to fully capture their essence. I hope that you will still get to the bottom of his universe.

MEET MONSIEUR LUTENS…

What would your mother say about you?

This is my son!

Your first memory concerning perfume?

It is not an actual perfume, it is more a culmination of things. At the age of 7, your olfactory sense is completely developed. After that, you only rediscover.

When you go out, how much time do you need to get ready?

20-25 minutes.

What was the topic of your last dinner-table conversation?

This was too long ago that I could remember it.

The last time you had an argument was about…

Honesty

Your favourite shop?

The bookstore Librairie Galignani, 224 rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris. I shop there every time that I am in Paris.

Your most expensive piece of art?

I am not attached to expensive goods. Art is decoration for the house.

What was the first desire you ever felt?

Never to rest, always to exceed my own expectations.

What do you dislike?

Stupidity, ignorance and misbehaviour.

Most people wouldn’t know you’re a fine…

It is better that they don’t know.

In your suitcase, when travelling, there’s always a…

It is always empty when I am leaving Morocco and when I am coming back, filled to the brim.

Who is for you the most impressive person in history?

It mostly only one part that impresses me, so that I couldn’t name just a single person.

Are you subscribed to a newspaper or magazine?

No. I am changing my preferences too fast.

You would like to be really good at…

There is nothing I could think of. I could say that I would like to be a great dancer or singer, but that wouldn’t make any sense. I was just not born under that star.

You live in Morocco. How does it smell?

The scents of Morocco inspired me to do perfumes. It was no choice. Now, I don’t use those ones so much anymore.

Do you have  a favourite ingredient?

I will always use classic and natural ingredients. But I don’t have one favourite. Would you ask a  poet which ones are his favourite words? It is similiar. The ingredients are like senses, they will tell you something. You just have to translate. It is like a composition.

Now you have changed your way of perfume. The new L’Eau Froide smells fresh and is along with your first L’Eau from 2010 completely different from your other previous creations. Why?

Yes, you are right. It is a wonder of pureness. A shock. It is the essence of my life.

Some journalists called L’Eau de Serge an anti-perfume. Does it bother you if people analyze and judge your creations?

No, not at all. It is not mine anymore. It is over. I created it, but once it is done, it doesn’t belong to me anymore.

Do you have somebody or something in mind when creating a perfume?

I always think of something. The creation is passive, not active. You are in there. It is like a passion. It takes you on a journey, you have no choice. The real partner is the perfume. It lives and gives you the answer. You are at its demand. You have to forget the „you“.

Do you listen to music when you create?

No, those are two different things. When I am listening to music, I am listening to music! I am in it, that is unique.

Music is so important. But I hate this overdose in our days. Music is everywhere, in the restaurant, in the elevator. It kills all the senses. The same applies to perfumes. If you walk through a big department store, it is horrible.

Do you wear perfume?

Not very often. If I do, it is to set a statement. When I go out, I like to use it. But I rarely go out anymore.

The best perfume of all times?

Always the one, that I am working on. It is as it is supposed to be and loving it is just the natural consequence.

The most important beauty product a woman has to have?

Self-confidence. This is what she brings to the table. This is her. Beauty is the moment, when you are really yourself!

It is not about beautiful eyes or a beautiful mouth. Of course, those features help but there are beautiful people who are dreadful and there are not so beautiful people that can be very pretty. It is the charm that counts.

How much power do women have?

The power of persuasion and creativity. Everything creative is female.

You worked with Richard Avendon, Irving Penn. How were they? How was it to work with those famous people?

The had passion, they loved their work. They were not professionals. Professionals are boring. I worked with many considerable people, such as David Bailey, Helmut Newton among many others. All they had in common was, that they were not professionals, they were amateurs.

What does confuse you about people from your industry (cosmetics/fragrance)?

People that would like to be professionals. As I said, I only like amateurs.

Do you have a favourite city?

The city where I am in that moment. My brain is my room. I could live tomorrow in Geneva or somewhere else. I don’t care, what I need, I have on me. I just need my little book to take notes and that is it. Life would be the same.

You have done many different things in your life, photography, filmmaking, hair styling, perfumery among others. Do you have a favourite phase?

No. Each time, it is the same, just in another way.

One wish from the fairy?

That she turns my pumpkin into a carriage.

Thank you very much, Monsieur Lutens! It was such an honour to meet you!

L’Eau Froide, the newest creation of Serge Lutens, is in stores now, 50ml (CHF 108.-) and 100ml (CHF158.-).
Fresh and crystalline
Composition: Somali incense, musk and aquatic note.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Serge Lutens, Vogue Italia and © Sandra Bauknecht

At the moment I am in London where I met the lovely dynamic designer duo Kaufmanfranco at the net-à-porter offices yesterday. The New York label’s signature is dazzling evening wear that’s delicately embellished, plus modern day wear with an urban twist.

Isaac Franco to the left and Ken Kaufman to the right with me

Their sleek American style have landed them a stockpile of fans in every age group, spanning Taylor Swift to Jennifer Aniston. Calling themselves “the New Sensualists”, their designs are pure sophistication.

Taylor Swift and Jennifer Aniston in Kaufmanfranco (Photos: Getty Images)

It was lovely talking to the charismatic designer duo who answered openly my questions.

Ken Kaufman and Isaac Franco met over 25 years ago. FIT-alumni Ken offered Isaac his first job who at that time had just finished his studies at Parsons School of Design. Since then, the two have been working constantly together for the likes of Valentino or Emanuel Ungaro, just to name a few. In 2004, they decided to launch their own label.

You two seem like yin and yang, same vision, different approach but complementing each other perfectly. Who designs which part of the collection?

Me, Isaac, I take care in general of the day wear styles and Ken is more into eveningwear.

How can I imagine your creative process?

Each of us designs and does sketches that we present each other. We then sometimes change what the other came up with which makes our designs better and special.

Whom would you like to dress? This could be also a person in history.

I think Madonna. But I have recently been asked whom I would like to invite for dinner and I thought Moses and Madonna would make a great combination at the dinner table.

Why don’t you do a runway show?

We are still a small label and prefer putting all the money into the clothes.

Last night, I got a wonderful preview of the Kaufmanfranco F/W 2012 collection that is full of sophisticated cocktail looks and all the fall coats and dresses you need. The colours are dark, from black to silver and rust. The materials are luxurious with lots of embellished pieces, Kaufmanfranco’s signature style. Enjoy the photos that I took for you:

If I have whetted your appetite for some Kaufmanfranco shopping, I would like to invite you to explore their S/S 2012 collection which is in stores now by clicking here.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Kaufmanfranco and © Sandra Bauknecht

Tomorrow, the Versace for H&M collection will officially hit 300 stores worldwide (in the US on November 19th), so ladies and gentlemen be prepared to line up in the morning.

Last week in NYC, I got the pleasure to meet Donatella Versace and H&M’s creative advisor Margareta van den Bosch who sat down for a chat with Tim Blanks, Style.com’s editor-at-large, at the top floor of the Dream Downtown hotel.

Find out a little bit more about the collection and which one is Donatella’s favourite look. Believe it or not…Donatella even revealed that she likes shopping at H&M.

Margareta van den Bosch, Donatella Versace and Tim Blanks

What does this collaboration mean to you?

D.V.: It was very emotional for me to go through the archives to explore all the looks that Gianni created. It is an amazing way to reach the younger crowd. I am working closely with Lady Gaga or Nicki Menaj. It is great to collaborate with such dedicated artists who have so many followers. Gianni would be so proud to see his clothes worn by younger kids. This is an homage to Gianni.
I was scared to take over the reins from him when he died. I had to gain the credibility from the rest of the world.

Looking at your own shows, you are reenergized creatively. You are working with the Fringe London, Lady Gaga? Calling this a Versace moment, why do you think this was all coming together now?

D.V.: For me it is a fantasic moment. I talk and follow young designers. I am very interested in them and they are very interested in me. A house like Versace has a lot of history they can profit from but I am learning a lot, too. I am open to different opinions. Fashion is every day an exam. After all those years of minimalism, Versace and its luxury are back!

Margareta, did you feel a Versace moment as well?

M.v.d.B.: Yes, definitely. This is a different collaboration from what we did before with all those colours and prints, leather and studs. The essence of the house Versace was truly there.

Donatella, were you surprised when you went through your archives even that you know them well?

D.V.: I was amazed to see how Gianni did everything – I am sorry to say – before everybody else. I see a lot of homage to Versace today as for example young designer Riccardo Tisci did for the Givenchy F/W 2011 collection (looking at me as I was wearing a dress from this collection). But this is enough now. It is my turn, this is my homage to Versace!

Didn’t you have to make a concession?

D.V.: This was the best thing to work with H&M, there was no concession. There are fantastic people in this company. They said yes to everything, I never got a no. It has been a fantastic liberating moment. Just the amount of sketches surprised the team. 
31 looks were asked and I created 43 looks for the runway, from the chokers and the bracelets with the Medusa, flowers from Miami, printed jeans and skirts, leather, the high heels, nothing is missing.

Margareta, what are the criteria for a collaboration? Isn’t H&M and Versace at two comletely different ends? And how do you get started?

M.v.d.B.: It is very much a feeling that we discuss in-house. If we agree, we go for it. We had the first meeting and talked about the collection. We decided something little. When the second meeting took place with the teams around the products, like buyers, people for the packaging and many others, I expected some sketches but Donatella had everything ready. It was fantastic as we always have a lack of time.

Margareta, you said the time was right for Versace, what do you mean with that?

M.v.d.B.: Fashion should be something that makes you happy. This collaboration is about a dream, to give people the spirit of luxury. We try to make it as close to the brand as possible. Maximalism, colours, prints, everything is back. It is an optimistic upbeat collection even that you see all the bad news in Europe.

And how about you, Donatella? What do you think?

D.V.: It is a dream of luxury, for example when you touch the studded leather coat from the Versace for H&M collaboration or the original from the archives, you don’t know which one is the real one.

Donatella Versace with me

What is this collaboration about? Which impact will the collection have on H&M or Versace? Will it change your own work?

D.V.: I had that clear idea what to do, of the look that young people want. Fashion is freedom today. Technology plays a fantastic role and H&M uses it in an amazing way. It is interesting to see how young people put things together and that everything goes.

M.v.d.B.: Fashion is about expressing your individuality. This collaboration is about giving the customers something new and showing that you don’t need a huge budget to look good. We are very professional and have all the knowledge. We included for the first time homewear because it is part of the Versace look, as well as jewelry. I mean there is no Versace collection without jewelry. We have two different cushions, a blanket and many different jewelry pieces.

Which one is your favourite piece in the collection?

D.V.: I have 43 favourite babies.

M.v.d.B.: The studded leather dress and the rings.

________________

If I were you, I would definitely get a piece with the tropical print as this is a huge trend among the upcoming Cruise 2012 collections from the likes of Stella McCartney, Marc by Marc Jacobs and Givenchy.

And don’t forget to enter the contest to win the amazing purple one-of-a-kind Versace for H&M dress! Deadline is tonight! Good luck!

And rumours are out that the next collaboration might be with Tom Ford, OMG!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

Daniele Cavalli with me, Photo: Olivier Zahm

Meet the Man of the Year: Daniele Cavalli. The 25-year-old son of fashion designer Roberto Cavalli who is in charge for the Italian house’s men’s line, is not only an extremly interesting person, but also highly intelligent, down to earth, beautiful from the inside and outside, with a wonderful vision of life. I met with him recently in Milan and he told me some very interesting things, enjoy the interview.

After the huge success of your S/S 2012 presentation, which inspiration do you have for your next menswear F/W 2012 collection?

It will be an evolution, not a revolution, but totally different in the concept. The last two collections I did were connected with the same concept made in different ways. This is going to change for F/W 2012.

Summer gave me lots of inspirations. I turned off the phone and went to Africa. I started in Morocco and from there through the Sahara, where I met pythons and scorpios.
We went with camels, which was pretty adventurous. If something bites you, you die. You don’t have time to go to the hospital. We, my friend and I, travelled with Tuaregs. I love the nature and the adventure. And if you are respectful to death, nothing happens.

In the desert, you can’t have a fire. Fire would help you to scare away the animals. The gas lights we had were even worse as they attract the animals. At one point, I stood up, looked under my matress and found five scorpios. The Turag took a piece of a dry plant, and killed them like with it. Done! You have to know nature to survive. We slept in the dunes, totally covered because of the wind and the sand.

I know that you love music. Did you bring an instrument to the desert?

I brought a small guitar, a sort of mandolin.

What do you think about the relaunch of the Just Cavalli brand, of the S/S 2012 collection?

I liked the Just Cavalli show, strong and a very good way to relaunch the brand.

Do you prefer the main line Roberto Cavalli or Just Cavalli?

It depends on the show. The S/S 2012 Just Cavalli show was really good and it is great to see that the Just Cavalli brand is coming back. It is perfectly coordinating with the soul of the brand.

How would you dress women? Sexy like your father or more covered?

Both ways. I have my own vision of women. It would be really smart, chic and elegant. But believe me, I am telling you the truth,  I have never really thought about it. I think that I would do it the same as for the men, I would work on the tailoring, on the colours, on the  fabrics, always in a very chic way.

Yes, I would cover, but in the right way. I like to imagine. I love the dream. When the things are too obvious, it is less tempting. As a man, I like to use my imagination.

Have you studied fashion design?

I am lucky that I didn’t do it. I learnt everything from scratch.

Your father is Italian, your mother Austrian. What are you, more Italian or more Austrian?

I am really Italian, I am not Austrian. Actually, I am Florentine. My hometown is a historical, charming city, that sees the future, but keeps its treasure. Gardens, flowers, nature… Florence is a Rennaissance city. There is also something really dark. It is the contrast. My dark side is my blues side, meaning the music. I always like to work with opposite things and make them happen. Princess meets the bohemian women for example. I do it with everything in my life. The fusion is the most interesting part.

How is your German doing? Does your mum speak German with you?

No, my German is bad and whenever I saw my grandparents in Austria, it was pretty tough to understand them.

Was it a curse or a blessing to be Roberto Cavalli’s son?

Of course, a blessing! When I grew up, my father wasn’t popular at all. He was a pirate of the sea. We were riding in the summer times on small boots and he was protecting his family in the cabin when the weather and the waves were getting too tough. I like to see him like that. He is my father. The rest is part of the game.

Do all your siblings work in the company?
(Roberto Cavalli has two kids, Cristiana and Tommaso, from a previous marriage and three children, Rachele, Daniele and Robin with his wife Eva.)

My first sister Cristiana has a baby now and enjoys being a mom. She works just a little. My brother Tommaso takes care of the vineyards and trains the horses. Rachele designs the bags and has a little baby, too. My youngest brother Robin is still very young.

Would you like to move to another city? Or do you prefer staying in Florence?

Not to a big city like New York City. As for me, the horizon is so important, meaning it metaphorically, as a strong point of view. To live in a big city, it is always hard to see the horizon.

I am attracted to Asia. Moving for me would have more the impression of escaping. Maybe a girl would make me move (smiles).

Are you a heartbreaker?

Always, I live my life to break my heart. To be conscious, I fall in love with everything. What scares me in Milan sometimes is the following: I was at a friend’s party, where I said  hello to a lot of people. So many of them were asking me if I will be in Paris next week. And I was thinking why do they do that? People are working for Milan fashion week all year, and then they don’t even enjoy it because they are thinking already of the next thing. People are not appreciating what is in front of them. Florence saved me from such an attitude! I love Rome as well!

Do you like to do sports?

I was a sporty person. Until I was eigtheen, I was a soccer player, and I was a pretty good one. One day, I just put my shoes on the hook and stopped.
But I like sports. Your mind and your sould can only be powerful in a healthy body.

How do you see yourself in 25 years?

In the music industry. That is my biggest dream! I will do something important for myself in the music industry. I am ambitious. A great album would be amazing, producing, doing it by myself, but just if I am convinced of it. If I opened a music label, it wouldn’t be connected with the Cavalli universe, it would be mine.

Thank you, Daniele!

The photos are taken by André Saraiva for l’Offciel Hommes September 2011. The editorial is called “After Hours” and shows Daniele Cavalli in is his own collection of  S/S 2012. Tonight he will receive the GQ Man of the Year Award in Berlin and I am sure that for him there will be so much more to come…

LoL, Sandra

Roberto Cavalli, the “King of Bling” and the “Godfather of the Animal Prints” (as he quoted himself), will be soon coming to Switzerland for the Fashion Days Zurich. He will attend not only to present his latest relaunched Just Cavalli S/S 2012 collection, but also as a guest judge for the 8th annabelle award which will take place on November 10th, 2011. The lucky winner will receive a one year internship with the Florence based house.

Wild animal prints, floral embellishments and leather patches? It is surely no other than Roberto Cavalli.
His flamboyant iconic mix is seen everywhere on the red carpet and not only on celebrities such as Jennifer Lopez, Madonna and Lenny Kravitz. Last year, he celebrated his fashion house’s 40th anniversary. During Milan Fashion Week, I was able to meet with the Italian designer (who gives his nationality a lot of credit, believe me!). Please enjoy the interview where he explains his secret of success and why the Swiss women love Italian men.

You will be coming soon to Switzerland for the Fashion Days Zurich. Have you ever been to Zurich? Or will it be your first time in November?

Oh I have of course been to Zurich, many times! What a fantastic city, with a great energy. I love Switzerland, my wife Eva and I have a beautiful boutique in Saint Moritz, the nature is really stunning, it offers up a lot of inspiration.

What do you expect from the Fashion Days Zürich?

I’m really looking forward to taking part in Fashion Days Zürich, it’s a wonderful project. I expect to see new ideas from young, passionate people. I’m always curious about young talent and emerging designers, they are the people who will enter the industry with a fresh mind and new ideas, it’s essential to keep fashion alive!

One contestant will receive an internship with you in Florence. What are the main qualifications you are looking for?

The person will have to be positive, to come with a smile on their face and be driven by a strong desire to learn. I’m looking for raw talent that can be drawn out, and the curiosity of a young person. It’s so important that they are curious to learn!

Do you have an idea how your Swiss customers look like?

It’s not about how my customers look, the Cavalli world is not about looking a certain way! It’s about an attitude, it’s about personality, emotions! I think that my Swiss fans share in these beliefs the same way as my fans in Italy, China or Brazil do!

And oh yes, I had many Swiss girlfriends. The Swiss women are wonderful. They like the Italian men because we appreciate them. The Swiss men are sometimes too dry.

You have many different labels, from the main Roberto Cavalli line to Just Cavalli and Class by Roberto Cavalli, all three in different price levels. Dolce & Gabbana will be stopping their D&G brand and integrate it in the main line because they experienced that consumers didn’t understand the difference.
What about you? Is there a risk of confusion that costumers don’t understand why they should pay more for the Roberto Cavalli runway collection.

No, there is no risk of confusion. Obviously there are a lot of similarities, aesthetically speaking, between Just Cavalli and my main line Roberto Cavalli, because they are both part of the same Cavalli world and vision. But there are very basic and obvious differences too—Just Cavalli has a very young mindset— youthful, free-spirited, carefree! It’s an experimental line, and it obviously has a lower price point, so it’s more accessible than Roberto Cavalli mainline, whereas Roberto Cavalli is more formal and is taking the direction of demi-couture, the artisanship, the attention to detail—this is the fundamental difference.

What is your main target group for Just Cavalli? What is for you the big difference compared to the runway label?

Firstly, Just Cavalli is also a ’runway’ brand! We always have a fashion show, equally as beautiful as for the first line Roberto Cavalli. It may be the second line, but it is my baby! I love designing for Just Cavalli, because for me it’s a world of experimentation, researching and discovering new shapes, styles, materials! Just Cavalli has a ‘younger’ target, I don’t mean ‘younger’ as defined by an age bracket, but a younger philosophy—it’s very free-spirited and carefree and is highly competitive in the market segment known as “designer contemporary”. Roberto Cavalli is obviously accessible to a narrower target, it’s more exclusive of course, but I put the same amount of love and thought into each line.

The Just Cavalli line will not lose its distinct style codes, which have led to its success over the years, but will however evolve.

Is Just Cavalli your favourite son? Speaking in a metaphor.

I have three sons and two daughters. So yes, probably Just Cavalli is my fourth son. He is a little son but he grows very fast. But for a few seasons he was making me a little nervous, he was not good in school. But now, we have changed school and it is fantastic. And I enjoy teaching my son Just Cavalli. The DNA Cavalli is definitely there. He is a good son. He made so much progress.

Which do you think was the most important advice you have given your children? Did you expect them to work for you? Or did it happen naturally?

I got to where I am by believing in myself and following my heart, so I encourage my children to do the same! I’m proud to say that despite leading a very hectic life, I’ve always been very present in my children’s lives and I love having them around me in the work-place…but! If one day they decided “Papà, I want to leave the company to follow a different dream“, they would be leaving 100% with my blessing!

What was the most important thing you have learned from your father?

Sadly, I lost my father when I was very young, four years old. Luckily for me I had my outstanding mother! What a fantastic, marvellous person, a very brave woman … she was also present, by my side, in every phase of my life. She encouraged me to always carry on in the face of difficulties.

Please describe yourself in three words.

Passionate, curious, optimistic!

The secret of your success.

Self-belief and passion.

What makes a woman irresistible and sexy?

It’s not just how a woman looks but how she feels. I design my clothing so that the woman wearing my dress feels confident and believes in her beauty … it empowers her and this makes her fascinating. And last but not least the eyes. They are the soul of a woman!

Who is the most beautiful woman in the world? The sexiest woman alive?

Oh! What a question, there are too many beautiful women to name! Honestly I think that the sexiest woman alive is someone with great personality and strong character, a woman who knows who she is and what she wants! And, of course, she is even more beautiful if she is wearing a Roberto Cavalli dress, no?

Please tell us something about your iconic printed photographs on your materials!

Absolutely. That is my style. This makes the difference. Therefore they all like to copy me. I am the designer of the animal prints. Why? I remember one night in Kenia. I took a photo of a leopard. When you look at my prints, you can see the hair on it. Today, all the other designers copy me and do it my way. Two days ago, they opened a new store on Via della Spiga. So I thought: Ohmygod a new Cavalli store? It was no Cavalli, it was another designer but it looked completely Cavalli. My style is my style! This makes me nervous.

You have so many different projects and licenses, like the Just Cavalli restaurant in Milan, the Caffè Giacosa In Firenze, your own chocolats, vodka, wine, eyewear, clothes for dogs, childrenswear.
You have created a Cavalli universe? Where does the inspiration come from? Where are the limits?

Limits? This word is not in my vocabulary! The inspiration comes from everywhere, when you are a curious person you find everything you look for and more. I travel a lot, I’m a lover of the outdoors, of nature—my creations always have a connection to nature! What a beautiful world we live in!

Thank you Mr. Cavalli!

My dear readers, I hope that you have liked the interview!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

Meet Tom Pecheux, the Creative Makeup Director for Estée Lauder. The internationally acclaimed make-up artist was in charge for the Derek Lam S/S 2012 runway beauty looks.

I was invited to go backstage before the show to interview Tom which was just wonderful. His thoughts on makeup
 are so modern, he has an amazing aura.

Tom Pecheux with me

The best compliment for the Parisian beauty guru that is loved by celebrities and top photographers all over the world?
To hear someone say “I feel great” and not “this make up is great”.

Enjoy the photos I took backstage and the interview! You will be up-to-date how your makeup should look like for next summer.

What was the inspiration behind your makeup look for the Derek Lam S/S 2012 show?

The inspiration was sort of that modern relaxed archtitecture on the West Coast, California, sunshine, earth – this kind of juxtaposition between both. The juxtaposition between masculine and feminine. If you look at the make-up, you have a very bright yellow which is generally a very feminine colour, but it is in a masculine finish. It is almost matte, a light satin finish, instead of being shimmery. The cheeks are very softly sculpted. Sunkissed, bronzey. I took the pink out of the lips by using a yellow tone which neutralized the pink, so that you get a „not-so-girly“ finish.

When Derek showed me his collection and he told me about his inspiration, I felt immediatly the warmth of the West Coast. When you go to L.A., you see colours that you don’t see anywhere else, the sand is special. So I wanted the yellow to present the warmness that you find in California.

How do you apply it?

It is super easy to apply. First the concealer with the finger. Some loose powder. After we start with the colour to apply. A powerful eyebrow mixed with a little bit of black and brown depending on the skin tone. A brown shimmery shadow just under the brow bones to create a even darker and stronger look. I really want the girl to feel powerful.

The yellow shadow I am using on the eyelid for a nice contrast. It is a colour that many people are afraid off so I took that challenge to make it look good. For the transparent, high-shine pout I just put a sheer, shimmery yellow gloss without a lip liner.

What is your beauty must-have for the next season?

This is hard to say. If you are a makeup artist, you don’t stick to just one thing. But the focus for the S/S 2012 is definitely on the eyebows, you should concentrate on getting them beautifully shaped and defined.

I do love the yellow. I love to find a way to use colour a little bit frightening, to make it work. To make a girl look gorgeous, to show that it is not weird. It is basically challenging myself not to get bored.

Estée Lauder’s spokewoman Hilary Rhoda with me

Do you have a favourite face?

No, not really. I mean I love beautiful women. But what I truly find interesting is to work on women that are not models and to realize how much you can give like for example during Fashion’s Night Out.

Estée Lauder’s slogan is „Every Woman can be beautiful“. Not every woman will look like Constance or Hilary. But every woman in her own world will look gorgeous. It is also not about trying to look like somebody else. It is more about feeling good, happiness and confidence.

In your opinion, should a woman always wear makeup when she leaves the house?

If you feel good, you can leave the house without. I don’t like the rules, I like to break them. Try different things, like an unusual colour. You may like it or you may not but the most important thing is to not get stuck. Enjoy exploring new things and you will feel beautiful and confident.

I couldn’t agree more with Tom! So I am ready for the yellow eyeshadow and you? Unfortunately we will just have to wait until January 2012 to get our hands on Estée Lauder’s limited edition Pure Colour Gloss in Citron Kiss and Pure Colour Eyeshadow Palette.

But isn’t anticipation the greatest joy?

LoL, Sandra

Photos:  © Sandra Bauknecht

„To me, photography is an art of observation…
It is about finding something interesting in an ordinary place.“
-Elliott Erwitt

Recently I was invited by the Swiss private bank Clariden Leu to attend a very special soirée to celebrate the one year renovation of their headquarter on Bahnhofstrasse 32 in Zurich with the amazing exhibition „A World of Pictures“ by Elliott Erwitt. The photography legend had been flown in especially for the evening and it was a real honour to meet him.

Clariden Leu’s ‘Leuenhof’ was built in Neo-Gothic style between 1914 and 1915 and its impressive art gallery is the ideal venue for art exhibitions.

Olivier Jaquet, CEO Clariden Leu, gave an introductory speech and Birgit Filzmaier, owner of the gallery “19th & 20th Century Fine Art Photography” (the place to go if you are interested in Elliott Erwitts’s work) the laudation.

Elliott Erwitt with Mike Baur, Clariden Leu’s new Head Private Banking Switzerland

“Elliott Erwitt’s Best Picture? The Next One.”

Elliott Erwitt was born in France of Russian émigré parents in 1928. His formative years were spent in Italy. At the age of 10 he moved with his family to France afterward immigrating to the United States in 1939.

Grace Kelly, New York City 1955.

„It was pure luck. Luck is essential in photography.”

-Elliott Erwitt

Distinguished as both a documentary and commercial photographer, Erwitt has taken some of the most memorable photos of the 20th century, including portraits of Marilyn Monroe, Jackie Kennedy and Grace Kelly, as well as astonishing scenes of everyday life, filled with poetry, wit and a special sense of humor. Famous for capturing absurd split-second moments and subtle glances, Erwitt’s work is truly masterful. He likes children and dogs.

Jacqueline Kennedy, at the funeral of JFK, Arlington 1963

Dog Legs, New York City 1974

In 1953 freshly decommissioned from military service, Elliott Erwitt was invited to join Magnum Photos as a member by its founder Robert Capa. To date he continues to be an active member and one of the leading figures in the competitive field of photography.

Elliott Erwitt is said not to like talking about his photos as they talk for themselves. In the conversation between him and Ettore Gualtiero Robbiani, Clariden Leu’s art specialist and curator of the in-house private art collection, Elliott Erwitt’s evident sense of humour showed in his very witty answers and made him perennially quotable. Enjoy!

Elliott Erwitt, welcome to Zurich. How are you?

Most of the parts are working!

I have to confess I am really fascinated by you. What is this egg about?

Everybody has a tag here and I felt lonesome having no tag.

You are an eyewitness to history and a dreamer with a camera. You took some of the most memorable photos of the century. Where do you see your cultural roots?

Photographers don’t need to have roots.

Do you ask for permission taking somebody’s photos?

You never ask for permission. You shoot first and hope that they don’t realise. In Japan, it is very easy to be a photographer because everybody is. In Muslim countries it is hard as nobody likes their picture to be taken. In France, they have privacy laws, if people see themselves in the magazine, they can sue you if you don’t have a permission.

Couple Kissing, Santa Monica, California 1955

Have you been sued ?

I was sued by people who thought that they were in the picture but they weren’t.

How did your interest in photography raise?

Because of family circumstances, I was on my own since the age of 16 and I had to make a living. Taken photographs was a good way. You don’t have a boss. My only permanent job that I ever had was with the US military army. Everything else has been freelance.

Did you like the army?

I didn’t mind it.

Did you have your camera with you?

Always. I took some of my best pictures when I was in the army.

What is today your favourite camera?

I don’t have a favourite camera. I divide between my professional and personal work. For clients, you have to use the tools you need to achieve the results that your clients expect. For my own personal work, I walk around with a small camera, my Leica usually and that is quite seperate. One thing is for business, one thing is for hobby.

Miami Beach, 1962

And talking about influences? What were your early influences in photography?

My early influences were Italian films after the war, neo-realist films of Fellini, Rosselini, people like that. That was my main influence and apart from that the photography of Henri Cartier-Bresson which are the gold standards in my view of photography.

When it comes to being influenced you named Edward Steichen as a mentor. How did he influence you?

He didn’t influence me, he was just very helpful at that time. I was very young and I could use some help. He got me my first job by calling somebody up. He could do that, he was a very powerful man. My influences were as I mentioned before.

You once said that photography is a craft that everybody with normal intelligence could learn? But to take it beyond the craft is when the magic comes in? How do you actually approach your magic moments in a photo? Is it all staging, set-ups?

I don’t get up in the morning and expect to do magic. I think that magic is in the eye in the beholder. You don’t plan things. Good photography is not planned unless it is work which is planned. Photography which is interesting to me is simply an art of observation, organising elements, making fine prints.

Marilyn Monroe, New York City 1956

Coming to magic moments. In your career, you portraited Marilyn Monroe. I tend to say that you showed her in a different way than we know her. How was Marilyn as a person?

I was afraid that you asked that. I am always asked that question. She was very nice, very photogenic. She looked better in pictures than in real life. Also she looked pretty good in real life as well. She was a sensitive person, a little bit nuts. She was very kind to me.

Whom of the famous persons that you met was meaningful to you?

Famous people are ordinary people that became famous. President Kennedy, Fidel Castro, of course that is interesting. Those people are very historic figures. And the problem of taking a picture of those famous people is exactly the same than taking it of ordinary people.

When you mentor young photographers what are looking for in their work?

Visual sense, application, a kind of burning ambition because it is very difficult to succeed in photography. Digital photography makes it easy to become a photographer but hard to become a good one. So you look for energy, for perserverance, and as I said most importantly for visual sense.

Metropolitan Museum, New York City, 1988

What about ego? Do you need a strong ego?

A strong ego gets generally in the way of things. People don’t react very well to people with a strong ego. If you have it, keep it private.

Who is your favourite photographer living or dead?

The ones that are in my agency Magnum. Henri Cartier-Bresson is the champion of them. There are some that are very promising. Photographers who work for the passion, those are the interesting ones. The ones only on assignment are not the interesting ones, they are just earning a living.

Do you collect yourself?

I am not a collector. But I have exchanged with some of my friends.

57th Street Gallery, New York City, 1963

This year, you received the Infinity Award 2011 for Lifetime Achievement from the International Center of Photography. Can you please describe what it is like to receive that honour? It is the lifetime Oscar  of photography.

It is a little bit embarrasing. It seems like your life is over. You get a nice dinner, a little statue, people think that you are okay. But it really shouldn’t influence you that much.

You son Misha is a photographer as well. When he told you about his future plans, how did you react? What advice did you give him?

Get a dayjob! But here is an amusing anecdote: When my father retired, he decided to become a photographer because he wanted to follow in his son’s footsteps which I thought was very sweet.

Thank you Mr Erwitt for coming!

Thank you all for showing up! I couldn’t imagine that I am that interesting.

What an honour: Elliott Erwitt with me.

LoL, Sandra

While being in Florence for LuisaViaRoma’s Firenze4Ever event, I was able to meet Laudomia Pucci, the daughter of Emilio Pucci who serves as deputy chairman and image director of her family’s fashion house.
(For further information on Pucci, I recommend a previous post. Just click here).

Laudomia with me

The charismatic lady was very delighted to see me in head-to-toe Pucci and answered all my questions enthusiastically. Please enjoy my little interview with her:

Laudomia, how was it to be the daughter of Emilio Pucci? Was he a strong character?

The more I go ahead in life, the more I think that those people in general to leave such a legacy behind them, they must have worked very hard and been very very strong.

I also worked with Hubert de Givenchy. That is of course a different kind of person but an esthete to the last tip of his finger. These people had a vision of everything, a culture to die for and a very very fascinating life.

When you think of my father, there was the war, the upbringing in America, a fashion career, his politcal career and his success as a skier. It was basically five lives in one. Of course, those people who survived and who had seen so much, they had to be special.

So to be the daughter of all of that was normal because that was my life. But the story is that he wanted me to work in his business. He adored women. So to have a little woman was the best thing that could have happened to him.

You are a mother yourself. How do you balance being a mum and a business woman?

I have three kids. A girl, a boy, a girl. I have just added my kids to my life. It was a fabulous accessory to have and it became much more of an accessory (laughs…). It just completed my life. I was a late mother and my children are just so precious for me.

Emilio Pucci

Was your father similar to you being a parent? How did your father prepare you to take over one day?

My father had me also quite late in life. It must have been totally alike. So for example, when we launched perfumes. I went back to research  how my father did perfumes and I remembered. He was in my room when I was sick at the age of four . He was in there mixing perfumes and asking me: “Laudomia,  do you like that or do you like this?”

He was always putting me in his vision. I think when you have children, you see yourself moving on. So he saw his fashion move on and that was the message I got. I started working with him in the early 80s when I just had graduated. In the late 80s when he was not feeling well, we decided let’s move on, let’s bring the company where he wants it to be. And that is what I have done. Basically for the past 25 years of my life.

You sold 67% of the company to LVMH in 2000. How do you feel today about your decision?

First of all, I would have never thought that I would have sold and it feels funny enough very much the same as before. The reason for this is more than the influence, there is a mutual respect. That is very very important.

When you are with a partner, when people see there is a point in what you are doing. When you both hardly object it. When you have the patience in life to make it happen. I realised after ten years of managing the company, that I didn’t have the creative talent of my father. I realised that very early. It became such a competitive business, such a difficult business, you couldn’t find talents and production facilities.

And to have that know-how behind you with LVMH now all around the world, is just fantastic. We have great designers. We have been able to open beautiful shops. We have been able to save so much.

Peter Dundas

You worked with many well-known designers like Christian Lacroix and Matthew Williamson in the past years. Today, the enchanted slumber seems completely over and Peter Dundas has taken Pucci back on a fast ride up to the top. How  do you see him?

Peter is a very different approach. All the designers I worked with, I am grateful to. I needed a lot of input, a lot of energy. But Peter is a different approach. He is a dream! Peter gives all his time, all his energy to the company.

He is good with the girls, with the fashion, with the company, with the feeling. When you see him, he is big, he is blonde, he is sexy, “the blonde beau”. He has got all that and he gives that image to the company. When you asked about my father before, my father had a total different energy, but  also the same strong energy. But one thing that I like a lot is seeing the difference now 50 years later between my father and Peter. My father would ask if I had gained weight and Peter just loves bodies.

It is all about the body looking sexy. Women, the moment you make them look sexy, they are smiling, they are happy. And that is our job! The buzz at the moment is amazing. Peter is happy, I am delighted. So it is not the influence, it is what everyone of us can bring in to make Pucci the most succesful.

Thank you Laudomia for taking your time!

It was such a pleasure to meet Laudomia in person and I was so happy to see this on the official Emilio Pucci Facebook page:

As you already know, I am a huge Pucci fan and love Peter’s designs. For F/W 2011, he has seeked inspirations from Tyrolea and hunting, a little like Romy Schneider in Sissy or Anna Karenina. The beautiful embellishments and the corset-style dresses are absolutely divine. He laid the emphasis on the bust and the outcome is a collection that will make every Bavarian jump up with joy. Be prepared to see me at the next Oktoberfest in those suede knickers with the matching jacket. Love, love, love!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht and Pucci

Bex Manners with me

Yesterday, I was so happy to meet Bex Manners, the designer behind BEX ROX, the It-jewelry brand from London. She came to launch her beautiful collection with Lovers Lane who will exclusively carry the little treasures in Zurich.

If you are looking for a killer statement necklace, for deco inspired jewelry or for animal shaped rings, you will instantly fall in love with her creations. The entire range is bold and very unique, combining chain mail techniques with ancient Chinese knotting.

Since the launch of BEX ROX in 2006, the rise has been unbelievable. BEX ROX has not only done acclaimed collaborations with MADE Africa, and with Browns Focus, it has also been celebrated with the Coutts New Jewellers award 2009.

Please enjoy my interview with Bex Manners below. All the photos I took show the pieces that are available now at Lovers Lane.

Donkey Ring

You were raised in Menorca. What is your nationality? Your cultural background?

I am English but born and raised in Menorca- my mother is Austrian and my father is British but my soul is definitely Spanish!

How much has the lifestyle of the Balearic Island inspired your work?

I would say a great deal.  My collections are about a feeling, being a free spirit, youthful and colourful with a sexy undertone which for me sums up the Balearics…

Since when do you live in London? How do you like the city?

I’ve been living in London since 2007 –  I love it – it’s edgy, diverse and full of constant inspiration – people aren’t afraid to show off their style.

What is your favourite place on earth?

Right now my bed!!

Elephant Collar

How did you come with the idea of creating jewelry? What did you do before?

I was fashion stylist in NYC  and used to constantly make pieces for photo shoots and then would wear them afterwards- people in the streets kept stopping me to ask me where I’d got “that necklace” or “that bracelet” and I would literally sell them off my neck- et voila I started BEX ROX.

What is your most iconic piece? Your signature?

My Eivissa Cuff and the Natalie Ring are my most iconic pieces but then again I believe in my identity and make sure that every season screams BEX ROX.

Eivissa Cuff

Natalie Ring

Gold Tribe Pendant

I like your idea of a necklace that you can take apart with your magnetic clasp to get a bracelet and to be able to mix and match with other pieces so that the customer himself can become creative. Will this always be part of the collection?

Always.

What is your style advice? How would your perfect outfit with Bex Rox jewelry look like?

Walk out the door feeling all woman and believe in yourself, this way you’ll make anything work.

Do you only wear your own jewelry? If not, what else do you wear?

I also wear lots of vintage jewellery and pieces from other designers that are friends of mine.

Do you have a muse? Or an icon?

Most of my best friends are my muses!

Bex Manners in 3 words.

Individual, freckly and pretty temperamental ( but I suppose that comes with being a redhead! )

Where do you see yourself in the future? Will we see more BEX ROX, probably handbags or even clothes?

I have already started collaborating and creating but for now that would be telling.

Thank you, Bex!

And now ladies, run to Lovers Lane and get your Rox on!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

Meet Havva Mustafa, the mastermind behind the new luxury footwear brand HAVVA. Born into a family of third generation footwear artisans and designers, and growing up with the curious shapes of patterns, lasts and heels – Havva’s interest and passion for footwear was stirred from a very early age.

Determined to preserve the family heritage and knowledge Havva followed in her father’s footsteps and studied at the prestigious Cordwainers Footwear College in London. Gaining invaluable experience she nevertheless became increasingly frustrated by the constraints and lack of vision encountered. When wearing shoes of her own designs she was frequently stopped in the streets and realised that she wanted to share her passion. She set about making that dream a reality and launched HAVVA in 2009, with the support and backing of her family who all contribute to the brands existence.

HAVVA shoes are truly precious objects of desire. Please find below an interesting interview that the beautiful designer gave Sandra’s Closet:

1.You were born into a family of  footwear artisans and designers. Did your family want you to follow in their footsteps? How has the experience that you have gained from a very early age helped you?

I remember growing up, I was constantly surrounded by shoes, around the dinner table normal conversation was, what leather, last or season trend was going to be appearing. My father and grandfather have always been in the shoe trade, I think it became second nature; it was always something I was going to go into, and wouldn’t change it for the world. As I grew up- my shoe collection gradually expanded until there was no space left- as you can image for a girl it was heaven. Going on holidays would never be the same if we didn’t stop in a few shops to check out the footwear, so I gained a great back round knowledge of the industry before I even went into it.

2. You studied at the prestigious Cordwainers Footwear College in London. How did you like the studies?
Studying there was great, I learnt from design to making which I think is very important to be able to know how the final product will be created. I made fantastic friends who are also in the shoe trade and we meet up all around the world.

3. Nicholas Kirkwood, who became very well known for his shoe designs, studied at Cordwainers, too. I recently did an interview with him. Have you ever met him?
No I haven’t but I would love to, his designs are amazing-what an imagination.

4. Could you imagine to do different collaborations with other fashion houses like he does? If so, which fashion house would be your prefered one to design shoes for?
I think collaboration is a brilliant idea. The creativity that you combine with a fashion house can produce beautiful creations. One of them would be Miu Miu- the shoes are fun and unique and every season I look forward to their collections.

5. Is there any other shoe designer that you admire? And why?
Rupert Sanderson’s footwear is pretty amazing; it’s great to see every brand has their own unique touch.

6. If you were able to dress the feet of a famous lady? Which ones would that be?
Dita Von Teese- she has such a unique style.

7. I like the idea of creating shoes inspired by modernist architecture. Your designs are very special. How did you come up with this?
My younger brother is an architecture student and I was flicking through his books and saw these amazing shaped 1960s buildings.  All of these shapes and designs represented progress and ‘moving forward.’ They symbolized to the people around them that everything, including architecture, was moving forward in some way or another.

The spiral staircase, Buhrich house, 1960, designed by architect Hugh Buhrich demonstrates the curve and shape that inspired Loretta, the swirling shoe boot with elements of the patterns from the 60s.
The design of the Hotel and Restaurant Astoria in Trondheim included various versions of the cone chairs lending itself to Gloria with the geometric lines and side scroll.
The Philips Pavilion designed by the office of Le Corbusier, had strong dynamically-angled contours, geometrical architectural sharp lines and pointing asymmetrical lines takes the form of the style Rene with its intricate diamond design.
The St. Joseph’s Hospital in Chicago is somewhat famous for its marching walls of blue diamonds and the architectural feature of a pediment in the shape of waves took to the patchwork layers of Venus- wave roofing’s and detailing was a feature of the 1960s architecture. The high shine leather metallic mix was a tribute to the futuristic movement called Googie.

8. Do you have a shoe no-go?
Shoes that don’t fit! It can ruin such a beautiful silhouette of a shoe. And always get your soles and especially your heels repaired-when i see a heel bending and the top piece has totally worn away into the actual heel its terrible.

9. Havva Mustafa in three words.
The person- Passionate, creative and bubbly.
The brand- Infinitely, lavish and innovative.

10. What are your plans for the future?
I hope that the HAVVA brand just carries on expanding and we become a known brand for creating beautiful footwear.

Havva’s amazing accessories collection for S/S 2011 includes beautiful headpieces.

I am sure that we will see much more of Havva Mustafa in the future! For store locations, please click here. Good luck, Havva! I am already a big fan of yours.

LoL, Sandra