L’Oréal Paris x Isabel Marant

Great news for all beauty addicts and fashion lovers around the globe, this month Isabel Marant, the queen of effortless Parisian chic, is launching a make-up collection with L’Oréal Paris. Five multi-purpose products in a range of perfect shades, the line is ideal for creating the insouciant, pared-back look Marant’s customers adore. Below, take a first look at the products as the designer gives us an insight about the process behind creating the collection, and how the partnership came about.

With Isabel Marant – the queen of effortless Parisian chic

L’ORÉAL X ISABEL MARANT – WANTED: ONE COLLECTION OF EFFORTLESS PARISIAN ALLURE

For your first ever makeup collection, what did you want to bring to women?
Exactly what I want in my makeup bag. The essential products for every day, for life on-the-go. I approached this makeup collection in the same way I design my ready-to-wear collections: to be wearable anytime, anywhere. For me, Parisian cool style is not about social media perfection, it is a natural elegance: Super-natural for day then statement updates for night with a dark eye or a bright red lip. But never both at the same time. And always worn with a slight offbeat edge. Imperfection has a charm all its own. A makeup embracing your own personality.

This collaboration is Paris meets the Wild West, what inspires you about that era?
I love the myth of the Wild West. That borderless way of life, eyeing new horizons and feeling the endless possibilities of adventure. The way our culture is today. This modern reinterpretation of the West has been a theme of my fashion collections. The wildness of that era, the exploration, the rebelliousness… it is a continuous inspiration to me.

Why on-the-go makeup products?
For this collection, the question I asked myself was the same as when I design clothes: “what do I want to wear? What do I need that I don’t already have?” And the answer is makeup that’s effortless because we’re all on the go. Who goes back at home to change after a long day of work? I wanted to create products that are practical, fast on the draw! That can be applied on the go. Products that are small enough to take with you anywhere, any time. And also what was important to me was that each of these is multi-purposed. Easy to use and easy to take with you anywhere.

How did you decide what you wanted to include as essentials?
For me, every day makeup should be about wearing just one thing. One brush of mascara or a touch of lipstick or a little shadow. To create this collection, started with those three products. Then, the addition is a bit of color on the cheeks. The look I envision is makeup without trying, slightly undone. Easy natural elegance.

What influenced which colors you wanted?
For this collection, I had in mind colors “hors du temps”, timeless. The sought after Parisian look of today with a modern feel. We have three red lipsticks for that modern women can dress up with.

Isabel Marant F/W 2018

What inspired the L’Oréal Paris x Isabel Marant graphic aesthetic?
The inspiration is my Fall Winter 18 Collection, which is cowboyish: The “Wanted Posters” from the Wild West that we have reinterpreted in a modern way. And Black on white is the signature!

With each product emblazoned with either to SMILE, to SHINE, to AMAZE… is the message to wear makeup with confidence?
Absolutely. For me, that’s the difference between embracing first the woman, her personality, rather than the makeup first. It is very important to me. Those sentences are a lift me up to women using my products. And it is also a small touch of humour. We had fun in thinking about those sentences.

Let’s talk about each essential.
SMILE – You’re known for your smile – what is lipstick to a smile?
I love red lipstick: Beautiful alone, lipstick can even be more powerful with a smile! We’ve created 7 Isabel Marant shades for Color Riche, 2 nudes, for a bare lip look, 3 different reds for that bold lips you spot brightening a grey day on the Paris streets, and two deeper plum shades.

WANTED – Why a double-duty translucent mascara?
This transparent mascara is very natural but in the same time very sexy and you can also use it to tame your brows. Transparent, it suits every lash color, and gives a very natural, ‘wet’ look – a dewy, just emerged from water finish – that works on everyone. I love it.

SMOKE – When and where do you rock a smoky eye?
I’l l create a smoldering smoky eye to go out. The handy pocket shadow combines matte black for the smokiness with a beautiful iridescent black, blended with chromatic emerald and blue shimmer to add depth and intrigue to any eye color. Smudge on with your fingertips for a nonchalant Paris night.

AMAZE – When do you most need or use a cheek tint?
At the final stage of a show, when all the final touches being placed start showing up. When you just need a most subtle touch of color and light on the face. What’s genius about this cheek tint is that the formula adapts to your skin’s natural coloring.

SHINE – How does this highlighter reintroduce shine?
This is the light to detract any shadows or dullness. It’s a flattering, anytime highlighter that puts women in their best light. A multi-purpose cream that turns into a powder on skin, to blur imperfections while it subtly highlights.

What did you learn in the L’Oréal Paris labs that you didn’t know before about makeup?
So much. There’s a level of technology involved in the colors and in the textures. For example, AMAZE really amazed me! A formula that responds to the pH of your skin!

You’re the epitome of the natural look, how does this new capsule collection achieve that effortless result?
I would say understated not overdone. We’ve made the tones and the shades for natural looks – that take a nude lipstick, transparent mascara, a cheek tint for a flush that looks healthy and natural.

WANTED: WHEN THE WILD WEST HITS PARIS

How is the spirit of the Wild West captured in the campaign?
The Wild West comes to the Paris of today. So, of course the first shot is a woman on horseback. You see these strong women who dare to kick up dust, stand tall and prepare to duel in the City of Lights. These heroines will not stand for the status quo. The world is theirs – and they know it.

What made you decide – “Women on horseback!”
It was inspired by my Ready to Wear Fall 18 Collection. Uninterrupted horizons and low skies were the unseen backdrop for my silhouettes that inspired me. It’s such a powerful image, the rider on horseback. I enjoy rewriting the myth of the Wild West, the Wild West in Paris. These are heroines in their own right, not a cowboy in sight.

Is the Isabel Marant woman a loner or part of a bigger gang?
I don’t like the idea to put people in boxes. But I see my “girl” as an independent-minded woman shaping her own paths – yet joining up with other women to travel stretches of road at a time together.

Isabel Marant’s F/W 2018 campaign was photographed by Juergen Teller.

WANTED: A SHARED FORCE OF FEMININITY

What are the 3 values distinct to the Isabel Marant brand?
Sincerity, pioneering spirit, joy.

What is self-worth to you?
It’s self-respect, having an inner voice that speaks up for yourself, not down. Being yourself without letting the others change your point of view.

When did you first hear “Worth It”?
“Je le bien” I remember hearing as a teenager. It stood out at the time, but it must have resonated, even as a tomboy teenager raiding her dad’s wardrobe and not subscribing to the feminine ideals of the time.

What does “Worth it” bring to mind today?
It makes me think of women having to take ownership of their identities and choose their own path. Unfortunately, it is still not the case everywhere in the world.

Why L’Oréal Paris & Isabel Marant?
I love dressing women all around the world, in all their diversity – with a vision of femininity that I share with L’Oréal Paris. I like to give women the confidence to express themselves freely.

Both represent facets of the Parisian look, how would you describe French style in a few words?
French style is style. It’s somewhat hard to define the Parisian look. It is a carefree nonchalance, without trying just simply elegant, not pretentious. I think my style is really Parisian.

How do both you, and L’Oréal Paris champion women?
Giving each woman the freedom to be whoever she wants to be.

How do you define beauty?
Beauty is embracing yourself, it adds confidence.

WANTED: ONE SELF-MADE DESIGNER

How did your journey to a most wanted fashion designer begin?
I was actually going to study economics, but then because I couldn’t find the kind-of clothes I wanted to wear in the shops, I started making them myself. And that’s how the label first began.

Over 24 years as creative head of your label, what are your greatest triumphs?
I’d say one of the things I love most is seeing someone on the street wearing one of my designs from years ago. Seeing a pair of boots or a dress, be loved and worn for seasons. That to me is the greatest triumph.

Known for her conic heels: Lileas ruched leather ankle boots for F/W 2018icon

As a fashion designer, everybody wants more of you, how do you deal with fame?
I don’t see myself as famous. I’m not recognized all the time and luckily in Paris, people are mostly discreet, they want to play it cool and that’s great with me.

Your designs have a very distinctive Parisian signature, how do you describe it?
Effortless, free. A silhouette that speaks of self-affirmation and individuality with an art of contrast. Tomboyish but sexy.

What drives you to stay independent?
I always had creative freedom since I was young and that is never going to change. Freedom is everything to me.

You’ve said before what you do isn’t about fashion, rather “getting dressed.” How does that ethos translate into this beauty collection?
This collection is about getting ready: getting ready for a special day or getting ready for a party, the essentials to have always in your bag but still embracing yourself. Essentials that aren’t about creating an entirely new look but giving elegance to the look you have.

What makes Parisian style so desired by the world?
This is a question I’m often asked. I think Parisians are known for not overdoing their style, for having discreet elegance. Just having that little touch of charm. That’s said, French don’t look to work on their style but in fact they do!

WANTED: THE WOMAN BEHIND THE DESIGNER

How do you feel about your reflection?
I am happy with who I am and I am not afraid of time passing. I see the movement of time. I see aging as a beautiful thing that does not need to be changed and I do things for myself, to keep my mind and my body healthy. I’m very happy to be here, doing what I do.

Why such social media discretion?
I lead a full life, I’m a busy working woman. I cannot spend my time on social media because I don’t have time. But I am curious about what customers have to say about the brand. In the past, it was difficult to get feedback and get customers points of views.

Agnès Varda and her historical alter ego in her most recent movie.

Who’s your superhero?
Agnès Varda, one of the only female film Directors of the New Wave. I like what she represents for the French cinema, and what she has made smoothly for the feminist cause.

Do you see yourself as feminist?
I am not a feminist as a militant but rather in the way that equality is so rooted in me that I do not really think about people’s gender when I think of them. A majority of women work in my company, but this was never thought-out and I don’t make a political statement of it, they were just the best persons, the right moment.

If you could live in any other decade, which one would it be?
In the Wild West of the 19 th Century. 

What would you say to your younger self?
Stand up for yourself. Trust your voice. And don’t listen to anyone else. Follow your own path.

What is your mantra? Favorite quote?
Less is more.

One makeup product that you couldn’t live without?
A beautiful red lipstick which galvanizes when you are a little bit down.

Indians or cowboys?
I love the culture, the history and the myths surrounding both. Indians and cowgirls you mean?!

AVAILABLE NOW ONLY AND EXCLUSIVE AT MANOR IN SWITZERLAND.

HIGHLIGHTER: CHF 14.90
BROW MASCARA: CHF 16.90
LIP GLOSS: CHF 15.90
LIP STICK : CHF 21.90

TO SHOP ISABEL MARANT PRÊT-À-PORTER AND ACCESSORIES, CLICK HERE PLEASE.
icon

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of L’Oréal Paris and © Sandra Bauknecht

Hedi Slimane’s First Celine Collection

Yesterday, fashion’s second most anticipated show took place, Hedi Slimane’s debut for Céline. Ups, first mistake. He took the «accent aigu» (acute accent) away and Céline is now Celine. The looks, personally speaking, were very much Saint Laurent at his time, as if he just continued where he left off. For me absolutely boring.

The Celine S/S 2019 show invite

I loved when he started at Saint Laurent and went crazy for his looks. But after some seasons, I had enough in my closet of his rock’n roll chic. Of course, the collection for Celine is good, very ’80s and sexy. It is also ok to stay to true to yourself. But as a designer, I find it important to go with time and to value a brand’s heritage. Hedi just repeated what he did for Dior and Saint Laurent. Instead of taking the Yves away, he went for the accent aigu. Instead of applying his aesthetics to the French Maison in a new creative way, he just did copy and paste. Boring.

Copy and paste

To be honest, for LVMH it would have been the smartest move to give Hedi Slimane his own label.

ABOUT CÉLINE

Céline was founded in 1945 by Céline Vipiana and her husband, Richard, as one of the first luxury brands in the industry to make a made-to-measure children’s shoe business. The couple opened a first boutique at 52 rue Malte in Paris. The brand was recognised by its logo, the red elephant created by Raymont Peynet.

Céline Vipiana

In 1960, the brand decided to change its positioning by focusing its business on a ready-to-wear fashion brand for women with a sportswear approach. Henceforth, the brand offered a range of leather goods such as bags, loafers, gloves and clothes. The trench became the iconic product of the house. In 1973, Céline, who remained at the helmet until 1997, redesigned its logo with the intertwined “C” Sulky canvas, linked to the Arc-de-Triomphe, which appeared as a symbol for Parisians. At that time, Céline began its expansion in the world with the opening of various boutiques in Monte Carlo, Geneva, Hong Kong, Lausanne, Toronto and Beverly Hills.


In 1987, Bernard Arnault decided to buy into Céline’s capital. However, it was only in 1996 that the brand was integrated into the LVMH group for 2.7 billion French francs ($540 million). LVMH propelled the brand to fame with the opening of a boutique at 36 avenue Montaigne in Paris.
American fashion designer Michael Kors was named the first ever women’s ready-to-wear designer and creative director for Céline in 1997. During his tenure at Céline, Kors brought modern femininity with a luxurious spirit. In 2004, he left the fashion luxury house to focus his career on his own brand. In 2005, Italian designer Roberto Menichetti was named creative director. A year later, Croatian designer Ivana Omazic directed the design studio. Omazic was a former consultant for the brand and previously worked with Romeo Gigli, Prada, Jil Sander and Miu Miu. Omazic designed for Céline until 2008, after further disappointments for the brand.

Phoebe Philo’s Céline changed your wardrobe (even if you didn’t realise it)…  she managed to predict what you want six months before you know you do.

On September 4, 2008, the fashion portal Women’s Wear Daily announced that Bernard Arnault, president of LVMH, had appointed Phoebe Philo as the new creative director of Céline. Her tenure began in October 2008, and she presented her first ready-to-wear collection for S/S 2010 at Paris Fashion Week. Pierre-Yves Roussel, chief executive officer of LVMH’s fashion division, said that recruiting Philo was giving her the opportunity to express her vision. Philo brought a new touch to the brand creating functional clothes with a focus on materials and tailoring. In 2009, Vogue Magazine defined her style as the “cool minimal trend”. Philo studied at Central Saint Martins School of Art and Design in London. Prior to Céline, Philo held the position of Design Director at Chloé. In 2010, she received the Designer of the Year award from British Fashion Council. In 2011, she was awarded International Designer of the Year by the Council of Fashion Designers of America. Both prizes were awarded for her work at Céline.

We all wanted it! Céline’s Boston bag – first seen on the S/S 2010 runway.

In December 2017, following increasing rumors in the press, Philo announced her departure from Céline after finishing the F/W 2018 collection, which is to presented in March of that same year. Thanking her team, Phoebe Philo stated “Working with Céline has been an exceptional experience for me these last 10 years. I am grateful to have worked with an incredibly talented and committed team and I would like to thank everyone along the way who has been part of the collaborations and conversations…it’s been amazing.”

Hedi Slimane

On January 21, 2018, LVMH announced the appointment of Hedi Slimane as Artistic, Creative and Image Director, set to join the house on February 1. He is to direct all Céline collections, extending the brand’s offering with the launch of men’s fashion, couture and fragrances.

Great news for me, I can dress next summer in my former Saint Laurent pieces and will look like wearing new Celine. Money saved for other things…

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Céline, © Sandra Bauknecht

Tara Zadeh

For Tara Ghazanfar dreams of quitting her day job became a reality in 2016 when the London-based, US-born designer launched her handbag line, Tara Zadeh – named, in part, for her mother’s maiden name. ‘Zadeh’ is a Persian suffix meaning ‘born of’ – a fitting label for the realisation of Tara’s long-imagined dream.

Her bags reflect her Iranian heritage – the geometric shapes and vibrant mosaics in the palaces and mosques of Tehran and Shiraz influence each collection. After her first designs were loved by friends and family, Ghazanfar began bringing her creations to life, using a factory in the small town of Ubrique, Spain to produce the handmade leather and brass accessories.

Before launching her brand, she graduated from Parsons the New School with a degree in graphic design, and worked as Art Director of The Gentleman’s Journal, a London based luxury magazine for men. She spent years sketching designs based on pieces gathered from souks and markets around the world.

Her signature piece, the Azar clutch, is easily recognisable thanks to its round silhouette and geometric brass fixtures and has certainly awakened our desire being featured all over Instagram.

TO SHOP TARA ZADEH ONLINE, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Via Net-à-Porter, Browns, Tara Zadeh
@tarazadeh
icon

Emilia Wickstead’s Home Debut

Last week I showed you how to match your dinner invitations to your dress (click here for the previous post please). Now we can take it one step further and match the tablecloth and decoration to our outfits as London based designer Emilia Wickstead is bringing her coveted florals into the home. Exclusive to Moda, this collection of table linens (featuring prints lifted from her most-loved dresses) marks Wickstead’s first foray into interiors—and, better yet, it delivers within the month. Don’t miss it.

TO SHOP THE NEW AND EXCLUSIVE EMILIA WICKSTEAD HOME AND READY-TO-WEAR COLLECTION, CLICK HERE PLEASE.icon

ABOUT EMILIA WICKSTEAD

British-based and New Zealand born, spent her formative years in Milan and gained a Bachelors of Arts Degree in Fashion Design and Marketing at Central Saint Martin’s London with Honours in 2007.

After graduating, Emilia worked at fashion houses Giorgio Armani, Proenza Schouler, Narciso Rodriguez and Vogue in New York and Milan. Before returning to London to establish her own label in 2008 by opening her first store in Belgravia. Originally commencing as a made-to-measure atelier, Emilia’s collections are currently seasonal ready-to-wear and showcased at London Fashion Week from S/S 2012.

Emilia Wickstead is stocked in retailers globally including Net-A-Porter, Selfridges, Matches, Harvey Nichols and Moda Operandi alongside of her flagship store which opened in 2014, on London’s Sloane Street.

I am a huge fan of her beautiful feminine designs!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Emilia Wickstead

Beautiful Invitations by Mary Katrantzou

My avid readers know how much I love MARY KATRANTZOU and that I have collected her designs starting from her first season. This summer, she has joined forces with PAPERLESS POST to create some beautiful invitations that are matching many dresses I have.

Cowboys and Princesses Invitation

Her clothes use intricate digital prints as transformative elements of style—and her eye for pattern is a natural fit for elegant party invitations that transcend the envelope.

Click HERE to see the full selection that is available at PAPERLESS POST. Inviting your friends has never been so much fun…

Left: Powder Gun Dress (with Mary Katrantzou) – Right: Sprinter Fritz Invitation

Left: Powdy Dress – Right: Powdy Invitation

Left: Rodizio Clutch – Right: Rodizio Invitation

Left: Expandit Dress – Right: Expandit Invitation

Left: Showmanship Dark Rush Dress – Right: Star Heart Invitation

Left: Harp Hazard Dress – Right: Strip Valley Invitation

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht and via Paperless Post

Tribute to Christian Lacroix from Arles

While visiting Arles yesterday, I passed by a Christian Lacroix store (photo at the end of this post) which immediately caught my eye as I had completely forgotten about the fashion house after it had been sold by LVMH to duty-free retailer Falic Fashion Group in 2005.

Visiting Arles yesterday – an inspiration for today’s post.

I had been a big fan of flamboyant Lacroix’s designs and even got married in one of his couture dresses. Personally speaking, when Christian opened his Maison, I started actively being interested in fashion and his creations inspired me a lot of what I do today.

The story of Christian Lacroix

Christian Lacroix was born in Arles, Bouches-du-Rhône in Southern France. At a young age he began already sketching historical costumes and fashions. In April 1987, his dream came true and he founded his own fashion house in a private mansion at 73 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, in the heart of Paris. The House of Christian Lacroix was created by the Arlesian couturier and press agent Jean-Jacques Picart, with support from Bernard Arnault. Word quickly spread throughout Paris and Christian Lacroix’s name was on everyone’s lips.

A look from Lacroix’s F/W 1987 haute couture collection.

The following 26 July, Christian Lacroix unveiled his first Haute Couture collection for F/W 1987. This first collection was a radiant, opulent, virtuosic homage to the couturier’s roots; each look was infused with Mediterranean influences. The designer revisited traditional Arlesian outfits, drawing inspiration from the toreador’s cape. He highlighted southern France’s beauty, from the Camargue to Provence, in this 60-piece collection.

This first flamboyant fashion show was wildly successful, blowing the dust off the subdued world of 1980s high fashion and turning Parisian fashion of the day on its head. It was a departure from the minimalistic look of the influential Japanese designers en vogue at that time.

Christian Lacroix F/W 2004 Haute Couture collection

At a time when fashion was focused on simplicity, Christian Lacroix chose exuberance. When black became the standard, he opted for blood red, fuchsia pink and bright yellow.

With each new collection, Christian Lacroix designed pieces that combined unusual materials and colours, adorning looks with luxurious baroque touches. He brought back touches of folklore, history and theatre, infusing them with elegance and sophistication.

Very «Like a Prayer»: Anna Wintour chose for her first Vogue cover a Christian Lacroix couture jacket combined with a pair of jeans. It was photographed by Peter Lindbergh and  featured Israeli Model Michaela Bercu – US Vogue Nov 1988

Anna Wintour chose a Christian Lacroix Haute Couture jacket with a simple pair of jeans for her first American Vogue cover, photographed by Peter Lindberg in 1988. This look broke all the high fashion rules, pushing it into a younger and more liberated future.

After a spectacular debut, the Lacroix phenomenon spread as if propelled by the Mistral wind, and was soon featured prominently in all the most prestigious fashion magazines around the world.

Shalom Harlow in Christian Lacroix Haute Couture photographed by Bruce Weber for Vogue US, March 1995.

Throughout the 1990s, the brand continued to grow, diversifying its portfolio with household linen, tableware and more. This diversification continued to pick up speed in the following decade.

Between 2002-2005, Lacroix served also as the Creative Director for the Italian fashion house Emilio Pucci. He left on agreeable terms as he and the house believed that since he had other pursuits, it would be unfair to the house to not put in the energy required for future collections along with his other work.

Ad Campaign F/W 1997 featuring Karen Elson photographed by Paolo Roversi

In 2005, LVMH sold the House to its current owners, the Falic family, giving it new momentum as it explored other niches while continuing the House’s previous activities. In 2009, the fashion house put the business into administration and laid off all but 12 workers. Lacroix’s F/W 2009 Haute Couture was privately financed by Lacroix and each model was paid €50.

Final finale: Christian Lacroix and Vlada Roslyakova – Haute Couture F/W 2009

As Vogue editor Sarah Mower wrote: «It was one of the most poignant and emotionally fraught haute couture shows ever: a collection produced on a shoestring at the last minute, and only made possible by the collective will and donated time and skills of the seamstresses, embroiderers, jewelers, milliners, and shoemakers loyal to Christian Lacroix

«I didn’t want to cry,» said Lacroix «I want to continue, maybe in a different way, with a small atelier. What I really care about is the women who do this.» Lacroix said about his last Haute Couture collection. Throughout its history, the house never turned a profit and reported a €10 million loss in 2008.

When Christian Lacroix left his position as the House’s Artistic Director in late 2009, Sacha Walckhoff, who had worked at the House since 1992, was named Creative Director. Sacha continued the House’s transformation alongside President Nicolas Topiol, extending the creative focus to decoration and lifestyle collections.

Lacroix in 2018: Designing for Desigual

Lacroix, himself, started collaborating in 2011 with the Barcelona-based clothing brand Desigual. This year, he will launch 5 mini collections for the house.

Lacroix x Nymphenburg

He also collaborated with Nymphenburg for a limited edition collection of design objects.

Interior design by Christian Lacroix: Hotel Le Bellechasse in Paris 

Moreover, Christian Lacroix has completed interior design work at several landmark hotels, including the Hotel Le Petit Moulin in Spring, 2005; the Hotel Bellechasse, right in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés (Paris), in 2007 (a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World); and in 2010 Le Notre Dame hotel just a step from the cathedral Notre-Dame-de-Paris.

The newest hotel design project by Lacroix: Julius Caesar in Arles.

In 2014, formerly a 17th century Carmelite Convent, Julius Caesar in Arles opened its doors as a boutique hotel featuring décor designed by Christian Lacroix.

The Christian Lacroix store in Arles.

Lacroix without Lacroix… the House’s Studio still produces collections in men’s fashion, accessories (scarves, sunglasses, handbags, jewellery, watches and mobile phone accessories) and lifestyle (fabrics, wallpapers, cushions, rugs, tableware, candles and stationery). But unfortunately no women’s fashion… but to be honest that is also hard to imagine without Lacroix being there himself!

Lacroix, Sweetie, Lacroix! Your are a genius…

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Christian Lacroix, via Vogue and © Sandra Bauknecht

Bottega Veneta Has a New Designer

This week, Kering announced that Tomas Maier, who has been creative director of Bottega Veneta since 2001, is leaving the Italian brand.

Tomas Maier with Lauren Hutton

The reason? Kering has been dissatisfied for quite some time as Bottega Veneta’s sales have struggled and younger consumers are not interested enough in the brand that focuses extremely on craftsmanship. Compared to another label of the luxury conglomerate, Gucci, Bottega Veneta has been all about understated luxury and still lives up to its motto from the 1970s: «When Your Own Initials Are Enough.»

On the S/S 2017 runway: Gigi Hadid arm in arm with Lauren Hutton

Lately, Tomas Maier made headlines with the model casting for his S/S 2017 runway show. He sent out 73-year-old Lauren Hutton together with 21-year-old Gigi Hadid, confirming that beauty has no age. The same year, the brand reissued the iconic intrecciato clutch worn by Hutton in the 1980 film American Gigolo.

Lauren Hutton carries a Bottega Veneta clutch in American Gigolo.

Reissued: Lauren 1980 intrecciato leather clutch by Bottega Veneta
icon

In a statement, Francois-Henri Pinault, the CEO of Kering, thanked Tomas for his work in the past 17 years: «It is largely due to Tomas’ high-level creative demands that Bottega Veneta became the house it is today. He put it back on the luxury scene and made it an undisputed reference. With his creative vision, he magnificently showcased the expertise of the house’s artisansI am deeply grateful to him and I personally thank him for the work he accomplished, and for the exceptional success he helped to achieve.»

The new creative director has already been named. It is former Céline director of ready-to-wear, Daniel Lee. Until now, Lee has maintained a low profile at a number of historic design houses. He graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2011, worked at Maison Margiela and Balenciaga, before heading to Céline under Phoebe Philo.

I think that is an interesting choice. Kering has a track record of hiring lesser-known designers to top houses, which worked amazingly in the case of Alessandro Michele and Gucci.

TO SHOP BOTTEGA VENETA ONLINE, CLICK HERE PLEASE.
icon

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Bottega Veneta, via Grazia Magazine

Kate Spade Dead at 55

Yesterday’s news really got me and my outfit post from Le Dîner en Blanc has to wait another day… Around 10am New York time, fashion designer KATE SPADEicon, 55, was found dead by a housekeeper in her bedroom at her Park Avenue apartment in N.Y.C. Apparently she hang herself with a red scarf from a doorknob. She was pronounced dead at the scene, according to The New York Times.

The Spade family

What really gives me chills is the fact that she is survived by her husband of 24 years and her 13-year-old daughter. Being a mum myself, I cannot imagine the pain that has to be inside you to do this to your family. It is said that she left a note behind with messages for them to explain her actions. Her husband Andy was at home while their daughter was in school.

Message on the Kate Spade website 

KATE SPADEicon‘s story is a successful one at least when you read it. Neé Katherine Noel Brosnahan, founded her namesake brand in 1993 with husband Andy Spade after working in the accessories department at the fashion magazine Mademoiselle. While having dinner at a restaurant, both were identifying a market for quality stylish handbags which led to a fashion revolution in the 1990s by establishing one of the first modern accessories brands that did not rely on European roots.

Detachable tag tote by Kate Spade

Spade’s reasonably priced, box-shaped bags, covered in modest fabrics like microfiber and grosgrain, became quickly became popular, and the company expanded into other product lines, such as clothing and shoes.

Kate Spade amongst her handbags in 1999.

In 1999 she sold a 56% stake in KATE SPADE New York to Neiman Marcus Group; in 2006 she sold the rest of her shares, opting to focus on family over fashion as she had her daughter at quite a late age in 2005. «I needed a break and I really wanted to raise my daughter,» she told PEOPLE magazine in 2016. «People asked me, ‘Don’t you miss it?’ I really didn’t. I mean, I loved what I was doing, but I didn’t miss it as much as I thought I might

Pieces from Kate’s new label Frances Valentine 

Two years ago, she began another accessories brand, Frances Valentine, named for her daughter, Frances Beatrix, together with her husband. For this reason, she legally changed her name to Kate Valentine Spade to match her new label. «I thought it was important to distinguish who I am now,» she said. «I’m the same person, but there’s a difference.»

The difference might have killed her. R.I.P. Kate Spade! I am wishing the family a lot of strength to cope with this terrible strategy.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Kate Spade, © Sandra Bauknecht, Getty and People magazine

10 Years Atelier Swarovski Dinner

On Tuesday evening, I was invited to a lovely dinner in Zurich‘s new restaurant Ornellaia (absolutely worth the visit, I loved it!) to celebrate 10 years of ATELIER SWAROVSKI. Nadja Swarovski, Member of the Swarovski Executive Board, who launched the brand in 2007, has collaborated since then with over 75 of the world’s most exciting contemporary designers of which two had come for the occasion to Switzerland: Dutch designer duo Viktor & Rolf.

Partners in shine: Rolf Snoeren, my humble self, Nadja Swarovski and Viktor Horsting.

Swarovski crystals and fashion are a never-ending love story. Nadja’s grandfather Martin Swarovski worked already closely with designers, such as Christian Dior, whom he helped to embellish the famous «New Look». Many fashion designers have used those famous crystals to embellish their collections.

«Working with crystal is like applying fairy dust to the collections.»
Viktor & Rolf

From the new book «Brilliant: The Story of Atelier Swarovski»:

Left – Maggie Rizer in a look from Viktor & Rolf’s F/W 1999 «Russian Doll» collection, right – a necklace from Viktor & Rolf’s «Velvet Rock» collaboration with Atelier Swarovski in 2014 for which the duo used crystals on the jewelry embedded with velvet flocking.

In 2016 ATELIER SWAROVSKI added a home decor line, in 2017 the first fine jewelry collection first presented at the Oscars. The designs deriving from the versatile collaborations are truly special, adding to ATELIER SWAROVSKI’s success of today.

It was a lovely evening and I had a great time, especially with these two. Isn’t it great when your girlfriends are so beautiful and come in model sizes :-): Nadja Schildknecht and Mimi Mollerus, both wearing ATELIER SWAROVSKI.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Christian Dancker – saltyimages.ch and © Sandra Bauknecht

M∙A∙C Jeremy Scott Limited Collection

Hailed as one of fashion’s rebels, Jeremy Scott creates decadent high fashion from American cultural obsessions. With a fanatical following of pop music’s biggest icons, the irreverent designer provokes and pushes into fashion’s outer limits. Scott’s collection for M·A·C introduces manic colour for eyes, lips and cheeks specially packaged in cheeky tribute to the days of mixtapes, boomboxes, new music and unhinged creative expression taking root on city streets.

What is your relationship with M·A·C and how did you choose M·A·C to partner with?
M·A·C has been my partner for creating the looks for my shows for so many years. They’ve been a wonderful partner whose support has helped me to create my own vision in so many different endeavors. M·A·C has not only supported my designs from a cosmetic perspective, but they’ve helped to bring my documentary to life, and their philanthropic efforts separate them from any other brand. M·A·C is really the makeup that’s used by professionals and comes from the origins of high fashion – the purest connection to fashion of any other makeup company. M·A·C is the real deal.

What is the inspiration behind your M·A·C collaboration?
Music is a constant in my life. When I’m prepping for my show or dressing a pop star for her tour, I put music on and we use it as a muse to bring these different images and visions to life. I thought I could take this idea of taking a makeup palette and turning it into a boom box, cassette, and CD and it would pay homage to music which I find so important. We created these pieces with the outer packaging box just like it. It doesn’t look like a makeup packaging box and,I think that’s the purist expression of my creativity right now. So much of my outlook on fashion and beauty is about what I do, the humor I have and the way I see things and how I alter them and blur these lines. I can’t wait to share this collection with the world.

Model Jasmine Sanders backstage at Jeremy Scott’s S/S 2018 show

What does makeup mean to you and how does it affect fashion?
Makeup is such a big tool for creating and fulfilling my life’s work. Models walking down the runway is a silent film showcasing my designs. Makeup captures the mood that I’m trying to express and helps me with the message. It’s a great way to change your mood. Putting on a bright lipstick or a bold smoky eye can impact a look so drastically. Pairing a statement makeup look can turn simple jeans and a T-shirt into a totally different look. There are many men around me that inspire me and many women that inspire me to see different things in my designs. It’s really important to let people interpret my work in their own way.
I put it out there as a proposal with my own inspirations behind it. It’s for everybody else to take and process it for it to become theirs. I love that different people can perceive my designs in different ways. For both beauty and fashion, I would encourage everyone to follow your own instinct. If you feel beautiful using a certain lipstick or colour or texture, that’s where you’re going to experience the triumph of the individual. Confidence is true beauty.

What defines beauty to you?
There is so much versatility in makeup. During a certain period of time it creates a different expression or emotion and goes even beyond what apparel can achieve. As a designer, I tell my story through my fashion shows. The models are silent, so we use the lighting, the makeup and the music of the soundtrack to bring it to life in the moment. It’s the moment I’m trying to capture for the viewers and want them to stay in it for as long as possible.
I really hope that this collection with M·A·C invites new customers to both M·A·C and Jeremy Scott. There are so many more people that we have to touch and think people can find themselves through the excitement and a part of the world that I created with M·A·C.

Karlie Kloss on the Jeremy Scott S/S 2018 runway

What do you predict will be the main trends of 2018?
Honestly, when I look at makeup I think of it as something that is so individual. It is really time for the person wearing it to be themselves. There are endless styles, tastes and opinionsthat you can tune into. This collection with M·A·C, undoubtedly has opened more people to be a part of my fashion world and to experience this expression. Fashion and beauty to me is so much more exciting than an “inor an out list.” People should follow their instincts, bold, fun, or personal.

What are some of your fashion tips for the everyday and for the runway?
I think fashion is so amazing because it’s so individual. Everyone has different body parts that they want to be shown or love to see. Fashion is about dressing for the things you find beautiful in a way you feel confident. Even when I’m doing a show, I’m constantly trying to find the right outfit for the model to convey and characterize the look. All of these beautiful women and personalities, it’s so fun to match them to particular pieces. It can really create a moment that is so individual just by the way that she carries the clothes and how it speaks to their reality.

Gigi Hadid on the Jeremy Scott S/S 2018 runway

Please describe the Jeremy Scott woman!
The Jeremy Scott woman is always musically involved. She’s the one that’s on stage at the concert, or she could be backstage. She could be the lead singer or a fan with the enthusiasm of a girl going to her first concert. Music is a constant inwho the Jeremy Scott girl is.

What is one motto that you choose to live by?
I guess it’s really to never wait for yourself. There was a time period when I was first starting out and I would tell myself things like “that’s for later when you have more success.” I would think that I needed to give it more time or that I wasn’t just ready for it yet. I recently came to realize that everyone needs to live their life in all of its capacities and not wait for your ideas. I constantly remind myself of that. It’s the right time to stretch out of your comfort zone and embrace the fear that comes with the unknown.

What is your favourite item in your collection with M·A·C?
If I really have to pick, I would choose the boombox which is my M·A·C Jeremy Scott Lo-Fi / Eye Shadow x 29. It’s so strong and bold withall of the different colours. It really makes a statement. It truly suits all of the different beauties who love and wear my clothes. Everyone’s skin colour is different and everyone’s personality is so unique. I wanted my products to represent many different moments and didn’t want to leave any of my beauties out. I wanted this collection to offer out diversity and versatility and what we created allows me to put my arms around so many people.

FUTURE EMOTION / LIP X 9
LIVING IN STERE: WARM NUDE (MATTE)
VIOLETTA: BRIGHT COOL PURPLE (AMPLIFIED)
WILD MEMORIES: WARM INTENSE RED (MATTE)
BREATHING FIRE: BRIGHT WARM PINK (MATTE)
NIGHT CLUB SCHOOL: DEEP WINE (AMPLIFIED)
CARMINE ROUGE: COOL DEEP RED (MATTE)
DIGGING IT: DEEP DUSTY BROWN (MATTE)
MORANGE: LOUDMOUTH ORANGE (AMPLIFIED)
HAPPY SONG: MID-TONE ROSY PINK (MATTE)
CHF 49.00 


ACOUSTICA / CHEEK X 3
HEAVEN IN YOUR SMILE IRIDESCENT POWDER: PALE FROSTY HIGHLIGHT (FROST)
ACOUSTICA BRONZING POWDER: WARM BROWN (MATTE)
WALL OF DESIRE POWDER BLUSH: MID-TONE PINK (SATIN)
CHF 49.00 

LO-FI / EYE SHADOW X 29
LO-FI: SOFT BEIGE WITH GOLD SHIMMER (SATIN)
CREATIVE COPPER: PEACHY GOLD WITH SHIMMER (LUSTRE)
BITE THE BEAT: MID-TONE WARM BROWN (MATTE)
ENDLESS FREQUENCY: MID-TONE PEACH (MATTE)
DISCO THERAPY: BRIGHT MUTED ORANGE (MATTE)
SUPERIOR SOUND: SOFT CREAMY PINK (FROST)
HAPPY SONG: BUBBLEGUM PINK (SATIN)
BIRD’S EYE VIEW: BRIGHT FUCHSIA PINK (SATIN)
WALKING HEARTBEATS: MID-TONE RED (MATTE)
VACATION SPEED ZONE: DEEP PLUM WITH RED PEARL (VLXP)
GHOST STORY: CREAMY WHITE WITH ICY SHIMMER (FROST)
MORNING TICKET: SILVER METALLIC FROST (VLXP)
US DANCE REMIX: FROSTY COOL GUNMETAL (VLXP)
SUBTLY ELEGANT: MUTED PALE GREY (MATTE)
BONUS TRACK: WARM BROWN WITH SILVER SPARKLE (FROST)
BEAUTIFULLY CHARRED: MID-TONE BROWN WITH GOLD SHIMMER (FROST)
RAVEN EYED: TRUE BLACK (MATTE)
VIDEO EMOTIONS: BLACK PURPLE (MATTE)
MEMORIES OF SPACE: BRIGHT TRUE YELLOW (MATTE)
REMIXOLOGY: MUTED LIME GREEN (MATTE)
BEATALLICA: DEEP FOREST GREEN (MATTE)
SYNTHESEYES: PALE MINT GREEN (SATIN)
OLDIE BUT GOODIE: LIGHT SEA FOAM (MATTE)
POWERFUL PERFORMANCE: AQUAMARINE BLUE (SATIN)
AT THE TURNTABLE: SKY BLUE (MATTE)
ELECTRIC EEL: BRIGHT BLUE WITH SHIMMER (FROST)
SHE’S A MACHINE: LAVENDER WITH SHIMMER (FROST)
JAM SESSION: BRIGHT LILAC (SATIN)
NEW WAVE MIX: BRIGHT VIOLET PURPLE (MATTE)
CHF 148.00

Exclusively available at selected M·A·C Manor Counters and M·A·C Store Lucerne & Zurich and at www.maccosmetics.ch from today!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of MAC Cosmetics
#MACJeremyScott