Clare Waight Keller at Givenchy and More

Industry speculations aren’t always so wrong as we can see now. Yesterday, Givenchy announced Clare Waight Keller, former creative director at Chloé, as the house’s new artistic director. Rumors have been out for months that she will be the first woman leading the French Maison. Waight Keller will oversee women’s and men’s ready-to-wear and accessories, as well as haute couture with the appointment becoming effective May 2, 2017. Her first collection for S/S 2018 will be shown in Paris in October.

Clare Waight Keller with me

The British-born replaces Riccardo Tisci, who left the LVMH-owned brand in January, reportedly for Versace, though that appointment has not been made official. With 12 years at the house, Tisci, who is Italian, enjoyed the longest tenure after founder Hubert de Givenchy himself.

HUBERT DE GIVENCHY’S CONFIDENT STYLE HAS ALWAYS BEEN AN INSPIRATION AND I AM VERY GRATEFUL FOR THE OPPORTUNITY TO BE A PART OF THIS LEGENDARY HOUSE’S HISTORY.

I LOOK FORWARD TO WORKING WITH THE TEAMS AND WRITING A NEW CHAPTER IN THIS BEAUTIFUL STORY. “ CLARE WAIGHT KELLER

Natacha Ramsay-Levi

But who is following Wright Keller at Chloé? For the world of fashion a popular name, for others probably not: Natacha Ramsay-Levi who has been working along with Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga whom she followed 2013 to Louis Vuitton. The French-born was in a relationship with fashion «enfant terrible» and «Purple»-founder Olivier Zahm, with whom she has a son.

New year, new designer moves… let’s keep the fashion world busy!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Givenchy, Chloé

Vetements Moves to Zurich

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We feel it’s inevitable and crucial to create contemporary clothing,” says Demna Gvasalia, the Creative Director of Paris design collective VETEMENTS.

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The Maison Margiela alumni elevates deceptively simple pieces with meticulous construction, considered fabrics and playful proportions. Georgian Demna Gvasalia graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp in 2006. After designing womenswear for Maison Martin Margiela, he worked as head designer for Louis Vuitton womenswear. In 2014, he launched the label VETEMENTSicon, a design collective comprising Demna, his brother Guram and five other friends, that is based on the idea of urban cultures, the internet, everyday life on the streets and a modern wardrobe without seasonal themes.

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Vetements is THE trend-setting label at the moment. Demna Gvasalia, the brainchild behind the hot fashion brand and creative director at even hotter fashion house Balenciaga, is serving up clothes that come with a healthy side dish of humor. Just think of the famous DHL T-shirt or the Polizei cap.

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Just now, bigger plans have been revealed for the company. Demna and his younger brother and CEO Guram Gvasalia decided to move their headquarters and design offices to Zurich in Switzerland. How cool is that? In the former headquarters of Bernie’s Fashion that went bankrupt, Vetements has opened its doors.

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Don’t miss the cult collaboration with Manolo Blahnik by clicking here that is available now!icon

Manolo_VetementsVetements + Manolo Blahnik printed satin pumps

Personally speaking, I love watching the hype about Vetements –  still in my closet there is no piece yet. Just saying… but I absolutely adore what he does for BALENCIAGAicon.
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LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Vetements and Getty Images, via Manrepeller/Hypebeast

Dinner with Frédéric Malle

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Lately, I was invited by Perfumery Osswald in Zurich and had the amazing honor to have dinner with Frédéric Malle, a very captivating and inspirational gentleman, a father of four, and the man behind the niche fragrance house Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle. Born in 1962, he grew up immersed in the world of perfumery (his grandfather Serge Heftler-Louiche founded Christian Dior Perfumes, and Frédéric’s mother later worked as an Art Director for the same perfume house) and has a deep knowledge of raw materials, fragrance structure and accords that he shared with me that night. His ‘Editions’ collection includes scents by distinguished noses including Dominique Ropion, Jean-Claude Ellena and Pierre Bourdon.

IMG_0198With Frédéric Malle at dinner at the Widder hotel.

Malle studied art history and economics at New York University. In 1988, he began his career at Roure Bertrand Dupont, the prestigious perfume laboratory. After working in the industry for more than 12 years, Frederic was ready to embark on a new adventure.

Frederic_Malle_20004 of his first launched perfumes in 2000: Lipstick Rose (Ralf Schwieger), Musc Ravager (Maurice Roucel), En Passant (Olivia Giacobetti) and Une Fleur de Cassie (Dominique Ropion).

In 2000, using his connections and experience in the industry, Frédéric invited nine top perfumers to design their own original perfumes with no restrictions, not even financially regarding their ingredients they chose. Thanks to Frédéric Malle, the return to luxury perfumery took place at the beginning of our century. In an era in which most companies put more importance on brand names, Malle brought the attention back to the product itself: perfume.

Until today, through a simple “back to basics” approach, Editions de Parfums is challenging all prevailing trends. Frédéric Malle’s contribution to the creation of the different fragrances sold under Editions de Parfums varies depending on the perfumers’ desire. Perfumers appeal to him to assess their work in progress and to share ideas.

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These fragrances are packaged in bottles that feature the name of the perfumer—a first in the industry, where the perfumer is traditionally behind the scenes and credit for the scent is given to the fashion house or celebrity on the bottle. While we were talking during dinner, I could sense that Frédéric Malle is very fond of Dominique Ropion‘s work. The two of them seem to build an amazing team.

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The development of a signature scent is a lengthy process, generally lasting between 6 and 18 months. Each fragrance starts with an idea, an “olfactive sketch,” which can either take the form of a material base – the mix of two or three raw materials, like colors in an abstract painting – or of an initial feeling, the desire to translate or convey a specific emotion. From there, the perfumers gradually build a full-scale composition, tinkering and problem-solving until a perfect balance is achieved. The challenge is to polish and perfect without losing the impact and personality of the original idea.

Eliminate all that is superfluous or merely decorative” – this, Frédéric Malle’s credo, is the only rule imposed on the house perfumers. Malle requests that each fragrance be designed to uniquely merge with the wearer’s skin rather than to just be a “pretty scent.”

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Designer Frédéric Malle has more than 25 perfumes available at the moment, made in collaboration with perfumers Jean-Claude Ellena, Dominique Ropion, Maurice Roucel, Bruno Jovanovic, Carlos Benaim, Olivia Giacobetti, Pierre Bourdon, Edmond Roudnitska, Ralf Schwieger, Edouard Flechier, Michel Roudnitska and Sophia Grojsman.

Frederic-Malle_Downstairs-finalNew investments under the new helmet: Frédéric Malle’s London store at 14, Burlington Arcade.

Two years ago, The Estée Lauder Companies acquired Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle.

Frédéric Malle said about his decision to sell part of his company: “The Estée Lauder Companies has great respect for the art of perfumery and for the creativity, dedication and mastery required to create truly exceptional fragrance experiences. The company’s commitment to a high standard of excellence and ability to support the growth of entrepreneurial concepts in a way that preserves all that is unique and special makes The Estée Lauder Companies the ideal partner for us.

A truly inspirational creator and a real business man!

TO SHOP FREDERIC MALLE ONLINE, CLICK HERE PLEASE.
In Switzerland a large selection is available at Perfumery Osswald in Zurich.

LoL, Sandra

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Photos: Courtesy of Frédéric Malle and © Sandra Bauknecht, via Mr Porter

LFW Honours Richard Nicoll with Nicoll Blue

Richard Nicoll (courtesy of Jack Wills)

In a special tribute to RICHARD NICOLL, London Fashion Week February 2017 salutes his talent with a colour dedicated to him, NICOLL BLUE. Chosen by a group of close friends, the blue is said, by Laurie Pressman of the Pantone Color Institute who developed the colour, to embody “the elegance and sensitive spirit of this much beloved designer whose innate kindness, loving soul and good natured sense of humour held a special allure to all that entered into his orbit.

The Arundel St and main entrance to The Store Studios, 180 Strand; the central hub of LFW, have been painted in Nicoll Blue to honour the designer after his sudden passing in October, 2016. The 39-year old died from a heart attack in his home town Sydney.

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ABOUT RICHARD NICOLL

Born in London and brought up in Australia, Richard Nicoll graduated from Central Saint Martins MA in 2002. His entire graduate collection was famously purchased by Dolce & Gabbana right after. He launched his eponymous label in 2005 and quickly found fans in the likes of Kylie Minogue, Kate Bosworth, and Julianne Moore. He emerged as a member of the new wave of London talent, whose original take on modern sportswear fused with relaxed tailoring won him NEWGEN sponsorship in 2006 and three Association Nationale pour le Développement des Arts de la Mode (ANDAM) awards. His experience beyond his eponymous label included freelance design for Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton, the creative direction of Cerruti 1881, Fred Perry and later of youth label Jack Wills. In June 2012 he launched his debut menswear line at London Collections Men (now London Fashion Week Men’s). In 2015, he shuttered his namesake company and moved from London to Sydney.

Before his death, he had been preparing to start a new job as creative director at adidas in January 2017.

YVL_6640.1366x2048Richard Nicoll loved blue, here a look from his F/W 2014 collection.

To honour Richard, a minute’s silence will be observed just before the Central Saint Martins MA show on Friday 17th February. Plans are underway for a multifaceted, retrospective exhibition of the designer’s work to launch later in the year.

YOU CAN SHOP SOME OF THE LAST PIECES OF RICHARD NICOLL AT THE OUTNET BY CLICKING HERE.
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LoL, Sandra

Photos: Richard Nicoll (courtesy of Jack Wills),  Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages.com

Mode Suisse Edition 11

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Last night, I attended the 11th edition of the MODE SUISSE at the Migros Museum für Gegenwartskunst in Zurich. Ruling the runway were upcoming and established Swiss labels. A well prepared and entertaining presentation that showed a lot of passion for fashion in Switzerland. Some might still be too experimental, reminiscent of graduates at a design school, but the dedication that went into the work was absolutely worth it.

Bravo for the model casting! Very professional!

Mode_Suisse_2017Some of my own impressions of last night.

Mode_Suisse_Sandra_Bauknecht_GirlsSquad-1Girls squad: Laurence Antiglio, my humble self, Alexandra Kruse, Lisa Feldmann and Catherine Gonin.

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MODE SUISSE 11th Edition – THE DESIGNER

Julia Seemann
Ruling the runway was this upcoming Swiss label, one my favorites of last night. A little touch of Vetements paired with some Alessandro Michele ruffles, Julia used some of the most trending details of the season for this fun collection.

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LYN Lingerie
Just beautiful! Those lingerie pieces are ultra daring and very luxurious, all hand-made in the Swiss atelier, soon also available at Breuninger Germany.

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enSoie
Founded by Monique Meier, enSoie creates socially responsible fashion in Zurich, Los Angeles and Kolkata. Now in the hands of the youngest daughter Anna Meier, the label experiences a makeover. So Zurich, so Swiss, so traditional! 

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LIDA NOBA
Inspired by her Iranian roots, the designer created fluid lines with feminine details. Personally speaking, some of the looks were a little too much “Chloé”, but other parts have absolutely convinced me such as the dress below.

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GARNISON
The label’s post-dandy menswear starring Louis Vuitton-exclusive Noah Brown (see above) and Zegna-boy Fallou Gueye (see below).

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Julian Zigerli
Julian Zigerli’s second showing of womenswear and the gender fluid menswear that he is known for, this season inspired by the musical «Cats».

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For me, this was not Julia Winkler’s strongest collection. The looks were not very flattering, the music was depressive, this season she was a little too much experimental.

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WUETHRICHFUERST
The designer duo made their much-anticipated debut at Mode Suisse. The fashion brand is based in Basel and their garments are not particulary linked to the seasons. The cosmic prints reminded me a bit of Christopher Kane. I like!

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Adrian Reber
The Swiss designer uses vintage fur patches to create new pieces. I would like to see some men on the Swiss streets in those extravagant looks or probably not… what do you think?

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HEAD – Genève
The work of Jeremy Gaillard, Vanessa Schindler and Flore Girard de Langlade were presented during the 11th edition of  Mode Suisse.

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Special Guest – DOROTHEE VOGEL
Dorothee continues to be one of the most significant players in Swiss fashion. Her perfectly finished waisted jackets are legendary.

I hope that you enjoyed my little summary of last night. Great news is that Mode Suisse intents to make sure Swiss designer fashion is not only presented on the catwalk but becomes a day-to-day experience for everyone. You can try on and buy Edition 11 creations in the Mode Suisse pop-up store until February 25, 2017. Location: enSoie, Strehlgasse 26, 8001 Zurich.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Mode Suisse 11 by Alexander Palacios and © Sandra Bauknecht
Photos of the ladies and of me: © David Biedert Photography

Riccardo Tisci Exits Givenchy

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This was breaking news this week, Riccardo Tisci is leaving Givenchy after 12 years with the brand and the house won’t show during Paris Fashion Week. His F/W 2017 menswear collection and S/S 2017 Haute Couture collection, shown together on the runway in Paris on January 20, were his last for the label.

00-things-to-know-riccardo-tisciRiccardo Tisci with Beyoncé photographed by Anton Corbjin for Vogue September 2015.

If you are one of Riccardo Tisci’s 1.8 million Instagram followers, then you probably already know that the Givenchy designer is loved by celebrities such as Beyoncé, Madonna, Rihanna and many more… Ticsi’s exit finishes one of the fashion industry’s longest and most successful appointments.

givenchy-sequin-dress-US-VOGUE-APRIL-2014-editorial-daria-werbowyGivenchy sequin dress and fox fur cape in US Vogue April 2014.

In the last year and a half, Dior, Valentino, Lanvin, Chloé, Saint Laurent, and more have seen their designers leave, which seems to lead to the fact that the short-term position for the creative director of around 3 to 4 years is becoming the new normal.

At the moment, the industry is changing anyway dramatically…

gallery-1486050006-1484834195-syn-hbz-1484814959-donatellaGivenchy ad campaign 2015 featuring Donatella Versace.

Concerning Tisci’s future, rumors are out that he will move to Versace, a brand that he has long expressed his admiration for, especially for the work of the late Gianni Versace. Ticsi has built up a close friendship with Gianni’s sister, Donatella, whom he invited to pose in a Givenchy ad campaign in 2015. Donated herself called Tisci’s F/W 2011 collection an homage to her brother. For a previous post, click here please.

To pay tribute to this fabulous designer, let’s indulge in some of his most amazing fashion moments, such as his famous Bambi sweater, his love for Rottweilers, and the most beautiful floral prints.

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Have a look at some of my personal Givenchy highlights of the last years…
TRIBALWILD FLOWERON THE RED CARPET IN CANNESDANCING ON MULHOLLAND DRIVE DINNER AT L’ARC IN PARIS

For Riccardo Tisci, I think it is time to move on. Personally speaking, I have always been a great Givenchy fan, but change means new inspiration! And that is always good…

The fashion wheel is spinning again… let’s stay tuned!

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TO SHOP TISCI’S LAST COLLECTION FOR GIVENCHY, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Via Vogue, Givenchy and © Sandra Bauknecht

Exclusive Catwalk at 10000 Meters

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Today, I want to share with you something very special. For the first time, you can enjoy a catwalk show at 10.000 meters being on route to New York Fashion Week with Lufthansa on February 8, 2017 on board a Boeing 747-8.

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Up in the air, New York based fashion designer Rubin Singer, who began his career at Oscar de la Renta, is offering a preview of his women’s collection before the actual fashion show in the Big Apple. And the best is… on a catwalk high above the Atlantic Ocean.

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Moreover, air hostesses’ uniforms are also influenced by fashion trends. Therefore, in another fashion show the Lufthansa crew will model the looks of the past 60 years. And in tune with this retrospective, the jumbo jet has had a 70s-style facelift. Every passenger on flight LH 400 from Frankfurt/Main to New York on 8 February 2017 is invited to take part in this unique event – irrespective of booking class.

I am loving it! What a great idea!
TO BOOK YOUR FLIGHT, CLICK HERE PLEASE.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Lufthansa and Rubin Singer

Karl Lagerfeld’s Swarovski Tiara

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On February 23, 2017, the famous Vienna Opera Ball, one of the most exclusive highlights of the Viennese social calendar, celebrates its 150th anniversary. It is an event steeped in tradition and timeless glamour, where debutantes and their partners dance the opening waltz and dazzle wearing fairytale tiaras as they are introduced into society. This year marks a very special collaboration as the tiara is designed by an emperor. No other than «Kaiser Karl», KARL LAGERFELD, teamed up with SWAROVSKI to design the sparkling tiara that will crown the heads of the debutantes.

Swarovski Tiara 2017 - Mood 1 (c) Thomas Schrott_Swarovski

Embellished with 394 clear and saphire blue Swarovski crystals along with five Swarovski crystal pearls, the Swarovski Tiara is named “LE BEAU DANUBE BLEU” (The Blue Danube) which is the common title of a famous waltz by the Austrian composer Johann Strauss II, composed in 1866.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Thomas Schrott/Swarovski, © Karl Lagerfeld and © Reuters

The New Loewe

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The fashion world is moving fast and sometimes labels that have been around for many years become all of a sudden absolutely trendy. It takes the right designer to lead the brand to new heights just like Alessandro Michele did with Gucci. Now, there is another fashion house that you should include in your wish list: LOEWE. Founded in 1846, Loewe started life as a cooperative of leather artisans in Madrid, before German entrepreneur Enrique Loewe Roessberg took over the workshop and consolidated it under his name in 1872. The Spanish label introduced its first ready-to-wear collection in 1965, bringing fashion to the centre of the brand.

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In 2013 Jonathan Anderson took over the helm at Loewe and transformed the Spanish house slowly but constantly into one of the most talked-about labels this season.

loewe-spring-summer-2016-ad-campaign01Raquel Zimmermann starred in Loewe’s S/S 2016 ad campaign.

Under Anderson’s creative direction, the label has had its logo and emblem rebranded by Parisian art duo M/M (Paris), Steven Meisel-lensed ad campaigns have been rolled out and the clothes and bags are quickly garnering must-have status among the style set. When it comes to taking a label steeped in heritage and making it relevant today, Anderson has the Midas touch.

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A statement bag that you should get: Loewe‘s Joyce embellished leather shoulder bag.

d08551fedc7faf2c5dbe9d0d7fa7a648A modern legacy: LOEWE Boutique Bilbao designed by architect Javier Carvajal, 1960.
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An authority in leather goods for over 160 years, Loewe, under the creative vision of Anderson, continues to design classic handbags using cutting-edge techniques. With a keen interest in interiors and architecture, Javier Carvajal (the architect responsible for the modernist Loewe stores in the 1950s and 1960s) is another key inspiration.

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The new must-have bag for the S/S 2017 season? Loewe‘s Puzzle leather shoulder bag.
iconFor Anderson’s first bag style, the Puzzle, more than 40 fragments of super-soft leather have been sliced and repositioned.

«I set out to find a new way of building a bag, fundamentally questioning its structure. It was about deconstructing a conventional bag to create a flat object with a tri-dimensional function» – Jonathan Anderson.

I love it! It is definitely on my shopping list…

You can shop a great selection of LOEWE at NET-A-PORTERicon, LUISAVIAROMAMATCHESFASHION and MYTHERESA.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Loewe

Edward Bess – Makeup That Wakes Up

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Beautiful natural colors that suit every women, makes up that wakes up, that provides you with that certain glow we all wish for. Recently, I got a request from a dear reader about the products I use for my nude lip colors, here you go: meet EDWARD BESS – of course not without serious hair envy. Born in Charleston, South Carolina, Edward Bess would discover his muse early on. With an innate sense of style and attention to detail, Edward has dissected beauty around him for as early as he can remember.

Even as a young boy my mother and three sisters looked to me for beauty advice – a glimpse into my future guiding women to look their best.

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At age 15 on a trip to New York City, Edward auditioned for the Professional Performing Arts School to study theater. Edward’s acceptance into the famed Manhattan theater school exposed him to cultural inspirations at every turn. As Edward continued his theater studies, he was approached to consider modeling. At age 18, fully immersed in modeling, Edward moved to work in London. His days were filled with castings and photo shoots as he soaked up the adventure of living abroad. These experiences would further influence and define Edward’s style as he set out to share his vision for women.
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The face of beauty would be revolutionized by Edward’s next endeavor. “I decided to create a collection of lip colors that flattered all women – and would never go out of style,” he says. Assembling ten lipsticks and five glosses together in a sleek lacquer box, Edward named his first foray Lip Wardrobe. He debuted his lip colors in 2006 at Bergdorf Goodman, meeting with customers excited for his hand-picked shades. Edward’s talent and passion for beauty was clear – Lip Wardrobe sold out on its debut.

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Ultra Slick Lipstick – Tender Love
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As word spread, women flocked to meet the 20 year old behind the buzz and have Edward personally select their lip colors. Edward expanded his range and introduced wearable shades for the eyes and face, also unveiling his Black Sea skincare range.

edward_bess1Black Sea Precious Pearl Perfector, 47ml
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In 2010 Edward Bess launched at Neiman Marcus Beverly Hills, establishing the brand’s pared-down philosophy across the country. The long list of celebrity followers continued to grow. Edward Bess made his international debut in Paris with the launch of his coveted collection at Colette in 2012, satisfying the demand abroad for the brand’s signature edited look.

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Defining Lip Liner – Natural
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 Today, Edward’s collection has conquered the world of beauty all over the world and I have become a very big fan. His passion for making the world a more beautiful place, one woman at a time, lies at the heart of his “less is more” approach to beauty.

TO SHOP THE EDWARD BESS COLLECTION ONLINE, CLICK HERE PLEASE.
Also available at Osswald Zurich.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Edward Bess
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