Sandra‘s Closet

The Elsa Schiaparelli brand, co-star of the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s new Costume Institute exhibition, is set to be relaunched by its current owner, Diego Della Valle, who purchased Schiaparelli’s trademarks and archives  in 2006, is on the hunt for a head designer which is said to be announced in October this year. Moreover, he has hired French model and actress Farida Khelfa as Schiaparelli’s spokeswoman.

Farida Khelfa

In July there will be the opening of the Maison Schiaparelli on Place Vendôme. The residence where the designer dominated the scene during the thirties and forties, her historical address revisited in a contemporaneous view maintaining the ateliers’ allure, where the new collection will be showcased. Starting March 2013, the first collection pieces will be presented. The new Schiaparelli universe, made up of very special collections representing her style well, with strong focus on accessories, for which Schiaparelli was the creator and protagonist. High quality fragrances and cosmetics, today, will exemplify her myth.

THE STORY OF ELSA SCHIAPARELLI (1890-1973)

When everything is forgotten this is what survives! In the theatre that is fashion, Elsa Schiaparelli plays a leading role. Absent from the fashion scene for over 60 years, Schiaparelli continues to inspire designers and by the very fact, many of her clever creations are still familiar to us: the seamstress stockman-shaped perfume bottle, her press clipping prints, signature exotic butterflies that flutter on hundreds of her models, also on hats, buttons, necklaces … And Shocking Pink that no longer shocks since it has been copied by so many others!

Mostly due to her shoe-shaped hat, with its heel pointed towards the sky, posterity associates Schiaparelli with the Surrealists. Yet this is foregoing a little quickly that, in her case, this influence is closely intertwined with a baroque culture: brought up in Rome where her family lived in the Corsini palazzo, Schiaparelli is the heiress of these Italian artists whose fantasy she imposed in France. Indeed her destiny awaited her in Paris. A destiny she encountered almost by happenstance having accompanied a friend visiting Paul Poiret, the famous couturier encouraged her and decided of her future. In 1927, Schiaparelli presented her first line of knits that announced sportswear, but it was not until 1930 that her style evolved towards a conquering and evanescent femininity that were to become her signature brand image.

Schiaparelli and Dali

In the 30’s, Haute Couture invented itself. Considered until then as suppliers, couturiers escaped and became the gods of an Olympus of clothing with evanescent shores. Not only did Schiaparelli quickly make a name for herself in this Olympus, she was given a nickname: Schiap!

To the tomboy running out of steam, she opposed a poetic and amusing elegance. A woman of fantasy that never ran out of ideas: hand- painted lobsters on chiffon muslin, the first zipper to be used as a fashion accessory, telescopic, spiral or ice cream cone hats, a feather hat simulating a sleeping chicken, bird cage hats…looking more attentively at Schiaparelli’s models, their line is fluid, naturally flowing over a woman’s body that it respects… The waist is in the right place, the bosom beautifully defined and the length of the skirts precisely as it should be.

With her infallible flair, Chanel immediately pinpointed her rival. She loathed Schiaparelli and the feeling was mutual. Indeed, Mademoiselle was quite annoyed that a foreigner might be trampling her turf. And, as if that wasn’t enough, just around the corner from her territory, in the shadow of the Vendôme column where Schiaparelli first set up shop in 1934 and took Paris by storm. Schiaparelli signed her most impressive collections between 1935 and 1940. Real fireworks. A suite of improvisations on a theme that she showcases and pushes to its ultimate limits: the circus theme, Commedia dell’ arte, butterflies, astrology, a beetle line, a pagan collection, inspired by Botticelli and the Birth of Venus.

It’s always easy to analyze a situation in the light of the final result, but how can one not make the correlation between the stormy electricity that preceded war and the sputtering of Schiaparelli’s genius at the same time?

Elsa Schiaparelli

It should be pointed out in passing that she was never more at ease than during the bustle that occurs before the presentation of a collection. She revels in creating under the gun, to come up with last minute solutions, to resolve insurmountable problems with one snip of her scissors featuring the same untamable and free audacity that is the very quintessence of Haute Couture.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Schiaparelli

Let me introduce you to BoBo House, a brand new fashion label launched in early 2012.

Founder and designer, Eloise Lapidus brings her experience, fresh style, and Parisian charm to her line of apparel. As daughter of world-renowned French designer, Ted Lapidus, Eloise’s keen fashion sense has been instilled in her ever since childhood.

Introduced by her father’s designs, worn and coveted by icons such as Brigitte Bardot, Alain Delon, Francoise Hardy and John Lennon to name a few, Eloise is greatly inspired by ’60s and ’70s bourgoise bohemians, or “Bobos” of Paris and St. Tropez. Thus, her collections are comprised of classic pieces that are romantic while discreet and effortlessly sexy offering ultra‐soft tees, luxurious leggings and a bit of Parisian je‐ne‐sais‐quois like floral chiffon pareos and leathers vests. Pricepoints run from $85 – $499.

Very romantic rocker – I like!

BoBoHouse is now available at Los Angeles-it-girl-staple boutique SATINE. Jeannie Lee, Satine shop owner, describes Bobo House as “Whimsical, spontaneous and fresh.”
For other stockists, please click here.

If you are interested in a shopping guide for Los Angeles, click here for a previous post.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Satine Boutique and BoBo House

Meet Geneva-based contemporary jewelry designer Suzanne Syz and her unconventional, original designs.

Suzanne cites Andy Warhol, Francesco Clemente, Julian Schnabel, Jean Michel Basquiat and Jeff Koons – all of whom she was friends with when she lived in New York City in the 1980s – as influences on her art-inspired creations. She loves using unusual materials and radiant colours.

Her “Live Savers”, inspired by the famous American candy, belong to Suzanne’s iconic designs.

Isn’t that “Smarties” necklace (around CHF 100.000) absolutely divine?!

When I met her, she said: “Jewelry should be individual and reflect your personal style.” She takes this vision seriously. All her designs are highly individual one-of-a-kind pieces and there is no way that she will reproduce the exact same one.

Suzanne Syz is exclusively available at Landolf & Huber in Zurich, Switzerland – a jeweler that I can highly recommend.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Suzanne Syz

Meet Roksanda Ilincic, one of London’s leading ladies. Her creations are the epitome of effortless elegance and the Duchess of Cambridge and Michelle Obama are among her fans.

After graduating from Central St Martins, the Serbian-born, London-based designer launched her eponymous line in 2002 and quickly gained recognition for her utterly modern brand of eveningwear. Choose from column gowns and cocktail dresses in draped-to-perfection silks and satins.

Her must-have piece from the S/S 2012 runway is the über-fabulous Margot lantern-sleeve dress. Roksanda got her inspiration from Balenciaga’s ’50s original bell sleeves and updated the look amazingly (see above).

Available in mustard-yellow and navy at matches.com and in pink at net-à-porter.com.

I went for the pink version. Stay tuned for the upcoming photos.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Roksanda Illincic and Balenciaga

Here are some exciting news: Giorgio Armani is designing Lady Gaga’s wardrobe for her Born This Way Ball tour which kicks off in Seoul on April 27th. It is not the designer’s first time collaborating with Lady Gaga.

Remember her series of outfits specially designed for her that she wore on the occasion of the 2010 Grammy Awards ceremony, followed by a number of red carpet events.

“Collaborating with Lady Gaga is always an exciting experience for me. I admire the way she uses fashion as a scenic element and as a means to build a character,” says Giorgio Armani. “She is an artist of many talents and great intelligence. Creating stage costumes for her is a stimulating and creative exercise.”

The custom Giorgio Armani wardrobe created for Lady Gaga is characterized by extreme forms and futuristic materials – latex, metal, studs, PVC – crafted with couture savoir faire. Each outfit is completed with detailed, other-worldly accessories.
Enjoy your sneak preview of Armani’s amazing theatrical sketches:

The first design includes a black bodice made of tubular PVC elements connected with metal studs, with mirrored metal inserts to define a curvaceous design. The ensemble is highlighted by a matching headpiece, robotic thigh-high boots, and exaggerated gloves ending in mirrored nails.

Another look is created via a shiny black grid-patterned PVC bodice with matching headpiece and embroidered ankle boots.  Highlights include shoulders outlined by a play of sharp spikes, black Swarovski jet crystals and flowing fringe, creating a moving architecture.

On the third black bodice, transparent Plexiglas, black crystals and luminous studs create a Cubist composition of abstract guitars. The matching headpiece follows in the shape of a keyboard; the boots are black vinyl.

The final design is a long tunic with leg-o-mutton sleeves made of skin-toned latex. Luminous PVC elements create flashes of synthetic light inside the garment. The same avant garde lighting is featured on the triangle decorating the chest, on the headpiece, and on the platform of the matching latex ankle boots.

This is definitely not a “Bad Romance” between Lady Gaga and Giorgio Armani!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Giorgio Armani

Needing little introduction, Diego Dolcini is a purveyor and creator of some of the finest shoes in the world. Having worked with Emilio Pucci, Bulgari, Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana to name just a few, Dolcini knows the beauty of high-quality, high-fashion shoes.

Launched in 1994, the company currently operates out of Italy and references art, cinema and architecture as design influences. The end result no matter what, is always strikingly beautiful.

To shop Diego Dolcini’s beautiful S/S 2012 collection, click here.

LoL, Sandra

Diego Dolcini with me

Enjoy some of Diego Dolcinci’s best S/S 2012 pieces below:

Photos: Courtesy of Diego Dolcini and © Sandra Bauknecht

According to the New York Times today, it is confirmed that Raf Simons, 44, will take over immediately as artistic director at Christian Dior. Supposedly, the Paris fashion house will announce the news on Wednesday officially. Simons will be replacing John Galliano, who was fired from Dior last year after he made anti-Semitic remarks.

His first collection is planned for July at the fall haute couture shows. The Belgian designer, who worked for the house of Jil Sander before, will be in charge of haute couture, women’s ready-to-wear and accessories, while keeping his eponymous men’s line.

“I feel fantastic,” Mr. Simons said by telephone from his studio in Antwerp to Suzy Menkes. “It is one of the ultimate challenges, and a dream to go to a place like Dior, which stands for absolute elegance, incredible femininity and utter luxury.”

So my guess in February was right… click here for the previous post.

LoL, Sandra

While being in London at net-à-porter, I had also the chance to meet the lovely London-based jewelry designer Diane Kordas who says: “I believe a piece of jewelry should be both casual and classic – but above all, timeless”.

Her eponymous creations are an elegant hybrid of simple design and intricate artistry, elevated with a glamorous dusting of diamonds. Each piece is unique, and fans include everyone from Madonna to the Rolling Stones. I adore her filigree designs, too.

Upgrade your style with her arabesque rings, diamond stud earrings and skull rose gold bangles.

Please click here to shop a large selection of Diane Kordas jewelry.

LoL, Sandra

Diane Kordas with me

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht

At the moment I am in London where I met the lovely dynamic designer duo Kaufmanfranco at the net-à-porter offices yesterday. The New York label’s signature is dazzling evening wear that’s delicately embellished, plus modern day wear with an urban twist.

Isaac Franco to the left and Ken Kaufman to the right with me

Their sleek American style have landed them a stockpile of fans in every age group, spanning Taylor Swift to Jennifer Aniston. Calling themselves “the New Sensualists”, their designs are pure sophistication.

Taylor Swift and Jennifer Aniston in Kaufmanfranco (Photos: Getty Images)

It was lovely talking to the charismatic designer duo who answered openly my questions.

Ken Kaufman and Isaac Franco met over 25 years ago. FIT-alumni Ken offered Isaac his first job who at that time had just finished his studies at Parsons School of Design. Since then, the two have been working constantly together for the likes of Valentino or Emanuel Ungaro, just to name a few. In 2004, they decided to launch their own label.

You two seem like yin and yang, same vision, different approach but complementing each other perfectly. Who designs which part of the collection?

Me, Isaac, I take care in general of the day wear styles and Ken is more into eveningwear.

How can I imagine your creative process?

Each of us designs and does sketches that we present each other. We then sometimes change what the other came up with which makes our designs better and special.

Whom would you like to dress? This could be also a person in history.

I think Madonna. But I have recently been asked whom I would like to invite for dinner and I thought Moses and Madonna would make a great combination at the dinner table.

Why don’t you do a runway show?

We are still a small label and prefer putting all the money into the clothes.

Last night, I got a wonderful preview of the Kaufmanfranco F/W 2012 collection that is full of sophisticated cocktail looks and all the fall coats and dresses you need. The colours are dark, from black to silver and rust. The materials are luxurious with lots of embellished pieces, Kaufmanfranco’s signature style. Enjoy the photos that I took for you:

If I have whetted your appetite for some Kaufmanfranco shopping, I would like to invite you to explore their S/S 2012 collection which is in stores now by clicking here.

LoL, Sandra

Photos: Courtesy of Kaufmanfranco and © Sandra Bauknecht

For Talbot Runhof’s  F/W 2012 collection, the designer duo seeked inspiration from the 1998 movie Great Expectations starring Ethan Hawke, Gwyneth Paltrow and Anne Bancroft, the latter of whom, impressed the most with her masterful performance of Nora Dinsmoor.

“Deserted on her wedding day as a young woman. Her garden still decorated and waiting in vain, in anticipation of a celebration. Covered in a verdant mélange of foliage, a daily affirmation of her life, her sadness, her passion, swirling through the decaying rooms of her home to her hymn of hope: Bésame mucho. She (Anne Bancroft as Nora Dinsmoor) was the inspiration for our F/W 2012 collection!“

Talbot Runhof is the German red carpet label worn by A-listers all over the world. Famous celebrities such as Angelina Jolie or Halle Berry have been spotted in their elegant and feminine designs. Today, their creations are sold in the best stores worldwide, among them Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus.

The success story started in 1991 when Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof met in Munich. Discovering their mutual passion for fashion they decided to join forces and began designing collections together under the label All about Eve. In the year 2000 the brand was renamed Talbot Runhof. They both share interesting and unusual backgrounds:

Johnny with me backstage before the show

Johnny Talbot, born 1964 in Nashville Tennessee, USA, studied electrical engineering and worked as systems manager for the U.S. government before he decided to become a fashion designer.

Adrian giving an interview before the show

Adrian Runhof, born 1963 in Mainz, Germany, studied business administration after growing up in a family of fashion producers and retailers and worked every since in the fashion business.

Before the show, I went backstage, so please enjoy the photos.

The collection is all about green: From ivy to oak, from acorn to gingko, birch to maple. Colour nuances of chartreuse to olive, emerald to evergreen, turquoise to jade, moss to bronze.

Famous MAC makeup artist Romero Jennings at work creating the feminine, elegant makeup look in a gorgeous green colour palette.

Me front row at the show

Among my favourites are the stretch suede skin tight leggings and the evening gowns of net lace, hologram sequins combined with layers of chiffon. Leaf applications adorn necklines, tops and dresses. Tweed appears soft and luxurious.

Accessories include booties, booty sandals, platform pumps, or peep-toes of tweed and of printed satin. Matching baguette clutches of velvet, tweed, printed satin embroidered with metallic borders, leaf motives, patchwork belts of matt shiny nappa.

And now enjoy the show! Talbot Runhof have fulfilled the great expectations, haven’t they?!

LoL, Sandra

Photos: © Sandra Bauknecht